服装制版中立裁与平裁的优势互补性研究

Research on the complementary advantages of vertical cutting and flat cutting in garment plate making

当前,多元化发展的服装行业不仅对服装款式的多样性需求与日俱增,还对版型、结构的合理性与舒适性提出了较高要求。好的版型与结构设计是服装品质的重要保证。常见的服装制版方法分为两种,即平面裁剪与立体裁剪,两者各有所长。平面裁剪具有规范性、稳定性等特征,是服装量产中经常采用的一种裁剪方法;立体裁剪具有更强的便操性、直观性等特征,多用于服装特殊的造型设计与时装走秀中。文章分析了立裁与平裁在现代服装设计中的应用和差异,并提出将两者有机融合的策略。

At present,the diversified garment industry not only has an increasing demand for the diversity of garment styles,but also puts forward higher requirements for the rationality and comfort of pattern and structure.Good pattern and structure design is an important guarantee for garment quality.There are two common garment plate making methods,namely vertical cutting and flat cutting,which have their own advantages.Flat cutting has the characteristics of standardization and stability.It is a cutting method often used in garment mass production and vertical cutting has more convenient and intuitive characteristics.It is mostly used in special modelling design and fashion shows.This paper analyzes the application and differences of vertical cutting and flat cutting in modern garment design and and puts forward the strategy of organic integration of the two.