聚合物对化妆品配方流变性、感官特性和保湿性的影响

Effects of polymers on the rheology profile, sensory profile and moisturizing of cosmetic formulations

选用7种不同的天然或合成聚合物以相等的活性物含量制备了水性凝胶、霜状凝胶、水包油乳剂和专利的Geltrap™油包凝胶乳剂。对这些配方进行稳定性考察、显微镜观察、流变性测试和感官评价,对稳定的水包油乳剂用CK水分笔进行保湿性测试。结果表明,聚合物的性质决定了产品的黏度、稳定性、流变特性以及最终的感官特性和消费者感知。

Four types of cosmetic formulations,i.e.,aqueous gels,cream gels,O/W emulsions and patented Gel-in-Oil emulsions(Geltrap™),were made with seven different natural or synthetic polymers at the same active matter concentration.Their stability was monitored.Microscopic analysis,rheological measurements and sensory evaluation were performed on the stable formulations.Moisture tests by CK Hydro Pen were also conducted on the stable O/W emulsions.The results indicate that the properties of polymers indeed determine the formula characteristics such as viscosity,stability and rheology profile,as well as the final sensory profile and the perception of cosmetic users.