基于虚拟仿真技术的针织挑孔组织设计与实践

Design and practice of knitted pointelle structure based on virtual simulation technology

为了降低针织挑孔组织设计与研发的成本,缩短试样周期,满足当下快时尚的需求,基于SDS-ONE APEX3岛精服装设计系统的虚拟仿真技术,介绍挑孔组织在电脑横机上的编织原理,阐述挑孔组织的移圈方向、重叠方式、移圈个数与挑孔织物外观之间的关系,并分别设计了树叶挑孔组织和罗纹挑孔组织的花样色码,运用虚拟仿真技术生成虚拟织片,将其与编织出的织物小样进行对比分析。结果表明:虚拟织片的整体效果逼真,孔眼分布及重叠方式与实物基本一致。通过对挑孔色码组合的合理运用,借助虚拟仿真技术可以快速直观地看到虚拟织片的肌理效果,大大减少或省略重复编织打样,对针织挑孔组织的开发具有理论和实践指导意义。

In order to reduce the costs of design and development on pointelle structure,shorten sampling periods and meet the needs of fast fashion,the knitting principle of pointelle structure on computer flat knitting machine was introduced based on virtual simulation technology on SHIMA SEIKI apparel design system SDS-ONE APEX3.The influence factors on fabric appearance were described,such as the moving direction and numbers of stitches,the overlapping relationship between stitches.In addition,leaf-like pointelle structure and rib pointelle structure were designed and knitted.The appearance between virtual samples and knitted panels were compared and analyzed.The results show that the virtual samples are very realistic and almost the same as knitted panels,especially on the shape of pointelle and overlapping relationship between stitches.By the means of virtual simulation technology,the color codes of pointelle structure can be simulated quickly and visually,greatly reducing or omitting repeated knitting process,which has theoretical and practical guiding significance for developing pointelle structure.