化妆品植物原料(Ⅵ)——在抗衰老化妆品中的研究与开发

Botanical cosmetic ingredients(Ⅵ)Research and development of anti-aging skincare ingredients from plants

随着年龄的增长,皮肤会发生一些变化,衰老是最明显的迹象之一。在皮肤衰老过程中,皮肤表皮慢慢变薄,固有修复能力逐渐减弱,胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白逐渐减少,皮肤慢慢失去弹性。皮肤衰老是不可避免的,但可以采用多种方法延缓皮肤衰老。本文介绍影响皮肤衰老的内外因素,以及皮肤衰老的机制和抗衰老方法。植物提取物可以通过多种途径对皮肤产生抗衰老作用:可以通过防晒作用防止皮肤光老化,可以作为各种活性物延缓和抑制皮肤衰老,也可以通过剥脱作用促进角质细胞的更新和新陈代谢而减少皮肤的皱纹和黑斑等。本文主要介绍有助于胶原蛋白、弹性蛋白和透明质酸合成与抑制降解的抗皮肤衰老的植物活性成分;多酚、黄酮、维生素和类胡萝卜素等,以及作为剥脱剂的植物羟基酸类成分。通过对植物提取物的皮肤抗衰老成分的详细阐述,以期为植物原料更好地应用到抗衰老化妆品中提供借鉴。

Among the changes of skin with age,skin aging is one of the most obvious evidence.During this process,the epidermis gradually becomes thinner,and its self-repairing capability is gradually weakened.In addition,the amounts of collagen and elastin in the skin gradually reduce,and thus the skin loses elasticity.Skin aging is inevitable,but a varity of anti-aging strategies can be adopted.Herein,the intrinsic and extrinsic factors leading to skin aging have been introduced,as well as some skin anti-aging strategies.Some of plant extracts can exhibit skin anti-aging effects via multiple ways,such as preventing skin photoaging by sun-screening ingredients,inhibiting skin aging by various bioactive components,and reducing skin wrinkles and pigment spots by skin peeling which activates the proliferation and metabolism of keratinocytes.The anti-aging skincare ingredients from plants have been introduced,including polyphenols,flavonoids,vitamins and carotenoids which promote the biosynthesis(or inhibit the degradation)of collagen,elastin and hyaluronic acid.Plant hydroxy acids used for skin peeling have also be introduced.The description of the anti-aging skincare ingredients from plants may provide a reference for the application of plant extracts in anti-aging cosmetics.