纬编大圆机织造针织双面格子布生产技术研究

Research on the Production Technology of Double-sided Knitted Plaid Fabric by Weft Knitting Machine

格子面料以其独特简单的纹路结构,大方易搭配的外观,新潮与怀旧并举的风格在纺织品市场上经久不衰。纬编针织因其纬向编织成布,螺旋式上升的成型机理,使中规中距的方格子图案难以在织造环节上表现,在推广应用上受到一定的制约。探索了在普通罗纹双面大圆机上,采用色纺纱织造,分别设计不同的织针排列和三角配置小提花技术,生产出2种纬编针织双面格子面料坯布,通过洗水定型后整理工艺的成品色布,格子方正,纹路特别,凸显一种较为理想的格子面料异类外观风格。

The fabric with plaid appearance was enduring in the textile market with its unique texture,simple and easy to match the appearance,trendy and nostalgic style.Because the weft knitting machine had the characteristics of weft circular knitting and warp spiral knitting,it was difficult to realize the knitted fabric with pattern in the weaving process,which greatly restricted its application and popularization in weft knitting machine.Aiming at this problem,two kinds of double-sided knitting fabrics with plaid pattern on the ordinary double-sided rib machine were designed by setting up special knitting needles and cam configuration,and cleverly using colored yarn to match.The yarn-dyed fabric after processing had clear pattern texture and regular plaid appearance,highlighting a relatively ideal and unique lattice appearance style.