时尚与僭越:宋代禁奢令中的铺翠装饰

A Study of “Pu-cui” Decoration in Song Dynasty

北宋中期,饰翠风尚盛行。“铺翠”作为合适的身份展示符号,获得上层女性普遍青睐,市场上大批翠铺、翠作涌现。自真宗朝起,这种大规模的炫耀性消费得到规制,此后包括仁宗、徽宗、高宗在内的多位皇帝也屡发禁令,然而高压之下各阶层依旧饰者自若。

In the middle of the Northern Song Dynasty,the fashion of“Pu-cui”decoration(a decoration with kingfisher feathers)prevailed.As a suitable symbol displaying identity,“Pu-cui”was widely favored by upper class women,and a large number of shops and workshops related to it emerged in the markets.From the period of Emperor Zhenzong(968-1022),this large-scale conspicuous consumption was under regulation.Since then,many emperors,including Renzong,Huizong and Gaozong,had repeatedly issued prohibitions.However,many people in different classes still wore“Pu-cui”decorations even under high pressure.