全粒面牛皮油蜡鞋面革涂饰工艺技术的研究

Study on fi nishing technology of reconditioned upper leather

本文主要对A级牛皮坯制作全粒面油蜡鞋面革的涂饰工艺技术进行了试验研究。首先研究分析了全粒面油蜡鞋面革对皮坯和涂饰工艺的要求,然后重点对涂饰材料和涂饰工艺要求进行了优选。试验结果表明,在涂饰工艺中使用优选的全粒面补伤膏、油蜡及非离子油蜡等涂饰材料以及优化的熨平、抛光、真空干燥工序操作,实现了全粒面油蜡鞋面革粒面平细度的明显提升,且成革真皮感强、毛孔清晰自然、底光效果好、表面光泽和油蜡手感更持久等,有效降低了生产成本。

In this paper,the fi nishing technology of full grain oil wax shoe upper leather made from grade a cowhide blank was studied.Firstly,the requirements of leather embryo and fi nishing process for full grain oil wax upper leather were studied and analyzed,and then the fi nishing materials and fi nishing process requirements were optimized.The test results show that in the fi nishing process,using the optimal fi nishing materials such as full grain patching paste,oil wax and non-ionic oil wax,as well as the optimized operation requirements of ironing,polishing and dry vacuum processes,the grain flatness of full grain oil wax upper leather is significantly improved,the leather feels strong,the pores are clear and natural,and the bottom gloss effect is good.The surface gloss and oil wax feel are more durable,which effectively reduces the production cost.