何谓“胡服”——唐时期汉人“胡服”概念考

What is Hu Clothing?——The concept research of Hu Clothing of Han people in Tang Dynasty

传统观念中,唐代流行的圆领袍服被称为“圆领袍”,因为唐代深受胡风影响,故而有学者认为,这种“圆领袍”是一种“胡服”,来自于西域地区。笔者在前人研究的基础上,提出一种新的观点,即唐代的圆领袍服不应该被统称为“圆领袍”,因为唐代至少存在“对襟式”“叠襟式”两种外观同样为圆领的袍服;基于文献及壁画材料的分析,“对襟式”的圆领袍服才是唐时期汉人所认为的“胡服”,这种“胡服”来自于唐人所称的“胡人”,特别是粟特人;“叠襟式”则被称为“袍”、“衫”,是周、汉、魏晋以来传统袍服体系在唐时期的继承。

In the traditional concept,the popular round collar robe clothing in the Tang Dynasty is known as the round collar robe.Because the Tang Dynasty was deeply influenced by the Hu fashion,some scholars believe that this"round collar robe"was a kind of"Hu clothing"and came from the Western Regions.Based on previous studies,the author proposes a new view that the round collar robe clothing in the Tang Dynasty should not be referred to as round collar robe because there are at least double breasted style and folding breasted style robes.Based on the analysis of literature and mural materials,it is concluded that the round collar robe with double breasted style is the Hu clothing believed by Han people in the Tang dynasty.This Hu clothing came from what the Tang people called the Hu people,especially the Su Te people.Clothing with folding breasted style is called robe or shirt.It is the inheritance of traditional robe system in the Tang period since the Zhou,Han,Wei and Jin dynasties.