时尚殖民主义视阈下的时尚设计生态之思

Thoughts on Fashion Design Ecology from the Perspective of Fashion Colonialism

工业革命之后,基于成衣大批量标准化生产方式,在时尚资本、媒体及全球化贸易共同运作下而形成的流行体系,是一种时尚殖民主义,给下游国家造成严重的环境污染、经济污染、劳动力剥削等社会伦理道德问题及严重的产业生态失衡。“时尚界需要洗心革面正本清源”,2021年8月9日,联合国负责气候科学的机构——政府间气候变化专门委员会(IPCC)发布的最新报告认为,时尚业亦是公认的污染制造大户之一。The Business of Fashion(BOF)称,时尚业温室气体排放量约占全球总量的4%—10%。如果没有重大干预,该行业将无法与将全球变暖限制在1.5℃以内的全球目标保持一致,时尚业制造的碳排放量超过了航空业与船运业两个行业碳排放量的总和。信息技术的发展颠覆了传统的服装生产方式,成为未来时尚产业的主要驱动力,“设计生态观”对时尚产业的绿色发展具有重要参考价值。本文从信息技术对服装业态的作用力出发,针对“时尚产业如何走向绿色未来”提出些许建议。

After the Industrial Revolution,based on the standardized mass production mode of ready-made clothes,the fashion system formed under the joint operation of fashion capital,media and global trade is a kind of fashion colonialism,which has caused serious social and ethical problems such as environmental pollution,economic pollution(inventory backlog),labor exploitation and serious industrial ecological imbalance to the downstream countries.“The fashion industry needs to reform and clean up”.On August 9,2021,the latest report released by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change(IPCC),the United Nations agency responsible for climate science,believes that the fashion industry is also recognized as one of the major polluters.According to the Business of Fashion(BOF),the greenhouse gas emissions of the fashion industry account for about 4%-10%of the global total.Without major intervention,the industry will not be able to keep pace with the global goal of limiting global warming within 1.5℃.The carbon emissions produced by the fashion industry exceed the sum of the aviation industry and shipping industry.The development of information technology has subverted the traditional mode of clothing production and has become the main driving force of the future fashion industry.The“design ecology concept”has important reference value for the green development of the fashion industry.Starting from the acting force of information technology on garment industry,this paper puts forward some suggestions on“how the fashion industry moves towards a green future”.