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牢丸·包儿——中国包子形制的演变

Laowan·Baoer——The evolution of the shape and structure of Chinese baozi
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摘要 关于包子的起源,古今多有由馒头分化而来之说。但束皙《饼赋》中,包子初型牢丸与馒头并举,表明二者各有所源。考古学、文献学、语言学、民俗学和面食学的综合研究显示,在2000年左右的时光中,中国包子的起源与演变大致留下了三次具有里程碑意义的时代印记:汉代中原文化再次入蜀,面餈与丸炙精致结合,中国包子初型牢丸面世;唐、五代、北宋时期北方包子定型,并与各式馒头同美;宋都南迁,包子形制江南化,包儿皮馅并精,味压南北,自此中国包子谱系始成。 Regarding the origin,it is often said that baozi(steamed stuffed bun)was differentiated from mantou.However,in Shuxi’s“Bing Fu”(Songs about Cake),laowan,the first type of baozi,and mantou appeared simultaneously,indicating that the two had different sources.A comprehensive investigation of archaeology,philology,linguistics,folklore and wheat food science showed that the origin and evolution of Chinese baozi roughly experienced three stages in about 2000 years.As the re\|entry of the Central Plain culture into Shu in Han Dynasty,the steamed cake and cook fried meat ball combined delicately and the original type of Chinese baozi emerged.The style of northern baozi was finalized in the Tang,Five,and Northern Song dynasties,as good as all kinds of mantou.As the capital of Song Dynasty moved south,the style of baozi changed to customize the south of Yangtze River,both its wrapper and fillings were elegant,the taste was supreme in the entire country.The Chinese baozi pedigree had been formed since then.
作者 王仁兴 WANG Renxing(China Food News Office,Beijing 100073,China)
机构地区 中国食品报社
出处 《美食研究》 北大核心 2021年第4期1-14,53,共15页 Journal of Researches on Dietetic Science and Culture
关键词 牢丸 面餈 丸炙 包子 包儿 包子谱系 面食文化 lao wan steamed cake cook fried meat ball baozi(steamed stuffed bun) baozi pedigree wheat food culture
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