经编全成形脖套的结构设计与工艺实现

Structural design and implementation of warp-knittedfully-formed neck sleeves

针对目前脖套结构单一,裁剪缝制加工工序多且有裁剪损耗等问题,在分析研究人体头颈部位尺寸数据的基础上,结合经编全成形原理进行全成形脖套款式结构设计与开发。首先确定基础纸样结构,在纸样上进行穿戴部位设计与结构分区,对于口鼻部位进行一体成形的双层织造结构开发,通过贾卡变化组织定位设计实现双层结构局部开口;之后在经编针织物CAD系统中进行贾卡组织设计,建立工艺模板并进行织物结构仿真;最后应用Style 3D软件进行经编全成形脖套的三维建模与虚拟展示。研究结果表明,一体成形的双层结构可通过贾卡变化组织实现,通过经编全成形织物的二维仿真与三维虚拟展示可快速预览开发织物的穿戴效果,为实现经编全成形新品的快速开发提供有效途径。

Aiming at the current problems of knitted neck sleeves with simple styles and the necessity for multiple cutting and sewing,resulting in cutting loss,this research developed a technique for fully-formed stylish neck sleeves by warp-knitted based on the data analysis of the human head and neck sizes.The basic pattern structure was determined followed by the design of the wearing part and the structure on the pattern.A double-layer structure with openings for the mouth and nose areas was designed and manufactured through the jacquard variable organization positioning design assisted by a CAD system,leading to creation of the process template and the fabric structure simulation platform.Style 3D software was used to carry out the three-dimensional geometrical modeling and virtual display of the warp-knitted fully-formed neck sleeves.The results show that the one-piece double-layer structure is able to be realized using the jacquard technique.Through the two-dimensional simulation and three-dimensional virtual display of the warp-knitted fully-formed fabric,the wearing effect of the developed neck sleeve can be quickly previewed and reviewed to achieve rapid development of new warp-knitted fully-formed products.