无缝针织运动服织物组织拉伸性能评价与应用

Evaluation and application of tensile capacity of seamless knitted sportswear fabrics

文章探究了不同组织无缝针织织物的拉伸性能,以用于无缝针织运动服的设计开发。以聚酯纤维、丙纶、氨纶包芯纱为原料,设计出14种包括平纹组织、抽条组织、网眼组织、罗纹组织等类型的无缝针织组织结构试样,并对试样进行1次和10次拉伸反复实验,测定不同组织结构的拉伸弹性模量和滞后量,以综合分析评价不同组织织物的拉伸性能。结果表明,菱形提花组织织物的双向拉伸性能好,网眼组织、菱形立体提花、交错抽条等组织织物的经向拉伸性能远优于纬向,罗纹组织织物纬向拉伸性能好,各试样组织结构均具有拉伸滞后性。以骑行上衣为例,结合织物组织对织物性能的影响进行针对性设计,从而满足运动服拉伸、散热、透湿等功能需求。

In this study,the tensile properties of different structures of seamless knitting fabrics were applied to design and development of seamless knitted sportswear.Using polyester,polypropylene and spandex core spun yarn as knitting materials,14 kinds of organizational structures,such as plain tissue,covering tissue,mesh tissue and rib tissue were designed.Based on the comprehensive analysis of one tensile and ten repeated tensile properties of these samples,the tensile modulus of elasticity and the hysteresis of different structures were obtained.The results show that the rhombic jacquard has good tensile properties on warp and weft direction.The warp-stretching performance of mesh tissue,diamond-shaped three-dimensional jacquard and interlaced covering is much better than that of weft.The rib tissue has good tensile properties on weft direction.All sample structures have tensile hysteresis.The results provide a technical basis for the design and development of seamless knitting sports.Taking riding pullover as an example,targeted design combined with the influence of fabric on performance meets the functional requirements of sportswear,such as stretching,heat dissipation,and moisture permeability.