晚明漳绒兴起缘由与对外影响研究

The Origin and External Influence of Zhangrong in Late Ming Dynasty

晚明福建地区起绒织物发展迅速,漳州、泉州等地皆有织造,其中尤以漳州起绒织物织造兴盛且品质高超,故称之为"漳绒"。关于晚明漳绒与天鹅绒、倭缎、漳缎之间的相互关系众说纷纭,通过追溯漳绒的缘起,厘清晚明时期漳绒、天鹅绒、倭缎及漳缎的词义,并辨析它们之间是否相互影响。然后再对晚明漳绒的工艺内涵进行分析,探讨晚明漳绒工艺的对外影响。

In the late Ming Dynasty,the pile fabrics in Fujian developed rapidly,Zhangzhou,Quanzhou and other places were all weaving,especially Zhangzhou pile fabric weaving flourished and high quality,so it is called "Zhangrong".There are different opinions on the relationship between Zhang Rong and velvet,Japanese satin and Zhang satin in the late Ming Dynasty.By tracing the origin of Zhang Rong,we can clarify the meanings of Zhang Rong,velvet,Japanese satin and Zhang satin in the late Ming Dynasty,and analyze whether they are between them affect each other.Then it analyzes the process connotation of Zhangrong in the late Ming Dynasty,and discusses the external influence of Zhangrong technology in the late Ming Dynasty.