江南文人审美视野下的昆曲服饰

The Aesthetic Characteristics of KunquCostumes and the Literati Aesthetics in Jiangnan

昆曲集宋元南戏和元杂剧之所长,经历代改良和传承,在明清时期的文人士大夫群体中广泛传播和发展。昆曲服饰是昆曲表演艺术的重要组成部分,具有传统戏曲表演体系的美学特征。在昆曲的发展过程中,江南文人追求的雅致美、意境美、自然美等审美融入了昆曲舞台艺术中,并引导了昆曲剧装制作的发展方向,使得昆曲服饰形成了色彩淡雅自然、设计构图虚实相间、图案搭配重写意和象征等艺术特点。

Combing the strengths of the southern operas of the Song and Yuan dynasties and the Zaju of the Yuan dynasty,Kunqu was improved and passed down through the generations and widely spread and de⁃veloped among the literati and scholars in the Ming and Qing dynasties.As an important part of the perform⁃ing art of Kunqu,Kunqu costumes also bear the aesthetic features common to the performing art.During the development of Kunqu,the aesthetics of elegance,mood and natural beauty pursued by the literati in Jiang⁃nan were integrated into the performing of Kunqu and guided the development direction of Kunqu costume production,which shaped the artistic features of today’s Kunqu costumes:delicate in color,realistic entwining with abstract in pattern,and impressionist and symbolic in decoration.