基于时尚价值感知的传统刺绣消费市场细分及特征研究

Studies on the traditional embroidery consumer market segmentation andcharacteristics based on fashion value perception

伴随传统手工艺的文化复兴和时尚设计的多元化发展,中国刺绣元素日益受到时装品牌的青睐,但融入刺绣元素的时尚产品消费仍缺少动力。为促进刺绣元素的时尚设计研发与消费需求精准融合,文章基于关联式模型,通过因子分析、聚类分析归纳了四种刺绣元素时尚价值感知类型,采用对应分析的方法研究了消费群体的人口统计信息与时尚价值感知的关系。结果表明:年龄、教育背景、收入水平、生活区域的差异对刺绣元素的时尚价值需求具有显著性影响,其中年长群体更关注刺绣的符号意义,年轻群体更在意刺绣创意设计带来的畅快感,高收入、高学历群体更钟爱刺绣图案的艺术表现,二线城市的消费者重视刺绣的符号性兼具实用性。

China’s traditional craft economy has been witnessing continuous growth,maintaining an annual growth rate of 8%in recent years and reaching a gross output value of 400 billion yuan in 2012.As indicated by the Plan on Revitalizing China’s Traditional Crafts jointly formulated in 2017 by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism,the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology,and the Ministry of Finance of the People’s Republic of China,traditional crafts cannot be replaced by industrial production.With the cultural revival of traditional crafts and the characteristic development of local fashion design,traditional embroidery represented by four well-known embroideries has increasingly attracted the attention of fashion brands and become active among famous brands including GUCCI,HEAVEN GAIA,FENGFEI·Z,etc.Nevertheless,there still exists a certain gap between the expression connotation of traditional embroidery in contemporary clothing and young consumers’cognition.Consumers still rarely purchase traditional embroidery fashion products voluntarily,reflecting the fuzzy fashion value of traditional embroidery in the process ofmodernization transformation.In order to promote the precise integration of traditional embroidery fashion design development and consumer demand,this study is focused on establishing a correlation model based on the perceived value theory.Starting from the value dimensions of traditional embroidery and fashion consumption,five factors for the fashion value perception of traditional embroidery were firstly extracted through factor analysis:symbol factor,cultural and artistic factor,vision factor,pleasure factor and quality factor.On this basis,these five value perception factors were further subdivided by cluster analysis into four categories,namely,fashion symbol value,fashion design value,fashion experience value and comprehensive fashion value,among which,fashion symbol value-oriented consumers have nostalgic and homeland feelings,so that their clothing selection in social occasions is aimed at conveying implicit personal information;fashion design value-oriented consumers are highly concerned about the cultural and artistic connotation of traditional embroidery as well as the sense of fashion brought by modern embroidery design;fashion experience value perception consumers care more about the visual stimulation brought by the innovative design of traditional embroidery,and will finally purchase for enjoying the pleasure brought by this visual stimulation;comprehensive fashion value perception consumers are willing to buy traditional embroidered clothing and accessories with symbolic meaning and commuting design,and have demands for the value in various aspects.Based on the above,the relationship between characteristics of consumer groups such as age,living areas as well as educational background and traditional embroidery fashion value perception was investigated through correspondence analysis.It is found that the differences of ages,educational backgrounds,income levels and living areas have a significant impact on the fashion value demand for traditional embroidery,and the elder group cares more about the symbolic meaning of traditional embroidery;the young group represented by fashion experience value consumer groups attaches more importance to the pleasure brought by creative embroidery design;high income and highly educated groups lay more emphasis on the artistic expression of embroidery patterns;consumers in second-tier cities care more about the symbolism and practicability of traditional embroidery.The relationship between consumer groups and traditional embroidery fashion value perception is expected to bring inspirations for product research and development of fashion brands.From the perspective of consumer positioning,fast fashion brands,designer brands,affordable luxury brands and mass-market brands correspond to fashion experience value perception,fashion design value perception,comprehensive fashionvalue perception and fashion symbol value perception,respectively.The research results can provide reference for design and development of traditional embroidery in the future.