翻转与颠覆:奢侈消费历史变迁的内在逻辑与文化动力

Reversion and Subversion:The Internal Logic and Cultural Dynamics of the Historical Transformation of Luxury Consumption

在消费的文化史上,奢侈消费一直作为异项被标出,而文本上及名称上的双向标出性正是其不断向前发展并颠覆奢侈自身的文化动力。奢侈消费经历了两次大众化过程,奢侈的形态与内涵两次更新,其文本的标出性亦在变动。在物消费时代,文化对奢侈的标出即是对符号的标出,奢侈的第一次大众化不仅让符号翻转成为消费文化的主流,还颠覆了传统奢侈。在符号消费时代,随着奢侈消费的第二次大众化,奢侈的文本风格弱化,原来作为异项的奢侈正在翻转。"奢侈"恶名亦决定了它的指称是标出项,污名化贯穿其整个发展史,而当前"奢侈"恶名被避开转而趋向于"善",这意味着奢侈将更为彻底地颠覆自身。

In the history of consumption, luxury consumption is always the marked, and the cultural dynamics of itsdevelopment is in the markedness of its text and name. Luxury consumption has experienced two waves of popularization, and the markedness of luxury text also changes with the two updates in the form and connotation of luxury. In the era of material consumption, the markedness of luxury is one of symbols. The first popularization of luxury not only turns symbols into the mainstream of consumer culture, but also subverts traditional luxury. With the second popularization of luxury consumption in the era of symbolic consumption, the style of luxury text is weakening, and luxury, originally the marked, is reversing. While the bad reputation of luxury determines its reference as the marked and stigmatization runs through its whole history, currently luxury tends to be described as “good”, which means that luxury will subvert itself more thoroughly.