京绣针法技艺研究

A study on Beijing embroidery stitch techniques

在京绣的名称及其针法技艺中,存在着概念混淆、模糊等问题,导致人们对京绣的概念及其针法技艺存在一定的疑问。文章从京绣历史、类型、文化含义三方面展开研究,力求厘清和完善京绣相关概念,剖析京绣的历史文化、艺术风格、绣品品类与针法技艺的关系。运用田野考察、比较分析、实物与图像分析等研究方法,剖析京绣的针法技艺特征,探究京绣不同类型绣品的针法应用规律,补充和细化京绣的研究数据。京绣针法技艺具有宫廷绣的复杂特征,京绣民间绣针法则呈现简便化特征,在剧装绣中融合了宫廷绣的艺术特征,简化了过于繁复的针法技艺;京绣配饰的针法是清代刺绣工艺的集中体现,多样精致。

There exit conceptual confusion and fuzziness problems in the name of Beijing embroidery and its stitch techniques,resulting in people’s doubts about the concept of Beijing embroidery and its stitch techniques.By sorting out the historical development of Beijing embroidery,this study defines the time and space of Beijing embroidery and its types,hoping to clarify and improve the related concepts of Beijing embroidery.Secondly,this study analyzes the relationship between the history and culture,artistic style,categories and stitch techniques of Beijing embroidery,analyzes the characteristics of the stitch techniques of Beijing embroidery,and explores the stitch technique application laws of different types of Beijing embroidery,hoping to supplement and refine the research data of Beijing embroidery.Based on the combination of theoretical research and practical investigation,this study uses research methods such as field investigation,comparative analysis and image analysis,and cross-penetrating studies of history,culture,design and other disciplines,and draws the following important conclusions:1)Beijing embroidery was formed and flourished on the basis of the urban pattern and cultural sector established in the capital of Beijing in the Qing Dynasty.Court embroidery,costume embroidery and folk embroidery are three types of Beijing embroidery culture,which are derived from Qing Dynasty court culture,Beijing opera culture and folk culture,respectively.2)Beijing embroidery stitch techniques inherit the complex characteristics of court embroidery which are manifested in the fact that Beijing embroidery is good at using time-consuming and difficult stitches,such as Lasuozi and Fanqiang stitches,and the combination of multiple stitches.This kind of stitch technique is mostly used in court embroidery and accessories of Beijing embroidery.3)Beijing embroidery has simple and convenient characteristics of folk embroidery,which is reflected in the extensive application of Duiling,Lian embroidery and other stitches in the categories of Beijing embroidery folk embroidery.This kind of stitching process is relatively simple and suitable for the production and usage by the general public.Influenced by the large amount of gold used in court embroidery,these folk embroidery stitches are often combined with Dingjin and Panjin stitches,fully reflecting the characteristics that Beijing embroidery originates from court culture and serves the royal court.4)Beijing embroidery costume embroidery combines the artistic characteristics of court embroidery with the stitch techniques of folk embroidery,forming an embroidery category that suits both refined and popular tastes.After the decline of court embroidery and folk embroidery,costume embroidery continued with the national quintessence of Peking Opera.Taking Beijing embroidery as both an art and a skill,as well as a cultural phenomenon,this paper conducts analysis,reflection and discussion on the intangible cultural heritage Beijing embroidery from the aspects of history and culture,humanistic spirit,aesthetic characteristics and stitch techniques.Beijing embroidery,an intangible cultural heritage,still retains the value of traditional handicraft culture.Its exquisite skills,craft culture and aesthetic value still maintain rich heritage and potential innovative value tension in the quantitative change of the market.