服装缝纫平整度评级中的若干问题

Several issues in the evaluation of garment sewing flatness

为提升缝纫平整度客观评级精准性和普适性,分别从织物和服装2方面对方法标准和评级技术进行梳理和评述。系统阐述国内外织物洗后接缝外观平整度、服装缝纫平整度主观评级方法标准,对比当前服装产品的测试方法、测试部位和技术要求,梳理接触式测量法、图像分析法、三维形态分析法等客观评级方法。着重探讨缝纫平整度客观评级中存在的若干关键问题,需要结合专家评级机制,提高主客观一致性、检测速度、评级精度,降低检测设备成本,以期助推客观、准确、快捷的商用检测设备的研发,为服装缝纫平整度相应客观标准的制定和实施提供参考依据。

In order to improve the accuracy and universality of objective evaluation of sewing flatness,the method standards and assessing technologies were reviewed and commented. The standards of subjective rating methods of seams appearance flatness of fabrics after cleansing and garment sewing flatness were systematically expounded. The testing methods, testing parts and technical requirements of the clothing products were compared, and the objective rating methods such as contact measurement, image analysis and three-dimensional morphological analysis were combed out. The existing key problems in current objective grading were discussed. It is necessary to integrate the expert assess mechanism, improve the evaluate speed, accuracy and subjective-objective consistency, and reduce the cost of detection equipment in future research, with the aim to promote the development of objective, accurate and fast commercial detection equipment, provide reference for formulation and implementation of corresponding objective standards for garment sewing flatness.