从日常饮食到文化体验:宁夏吴忠早茶文化的饮食实践与社会交往研究

From daily diet to cultural experience:A Study on diet practice and social communication based on Wuzhong morning tea culture in Ningxia

吴忠早茶生发于拉面馆,历经了从便捷的"大众食堂"到理想的"商业社交场所",再到新型"早茶文化体验馆"的变迁,实现了从普通餐饮到地方象征符号的嬗变。通过长时间的田野调查发现,吴忠早茶文化是当地传统饮食习惯与现代生活理念相结合的产物,将最初作为单一饮食场所的拉面馆整合成了多样性文化实践的饮食空间。集合了日常饮食、商业洽谈、礼俗仪式、节庆款待、相亲交友等多种形式的共餐活动,亦成为部分人的生活方式,以及地方特色文化体验与潮流文化的象征。

Wuzhong morning tea was born in beef noodle restaurant. It has gone through the changes from convenient "public canteen" to ideal "commercial social place",and then to the new "morning tea culture experience hall",realizing the evolution from ordinary catering to local symbols. Through long-term field investigation,it is found that Wuzhong morning tea culture is the product of the combination of local traditional eating habits and modern life ideas. It integrates the beef noodle restaurant initially as a single eating place into a eating space for multicultural practice. It integrates various forms of meal sharing activities such as daily diet,business negotiation,etiquette and custom ceremonies,festival entertainment,blind dates and friends,and has also become the lifestyle of some people,as well as the symbol of local characteristic cultural experience and trend culture.