局部编织对针织短裙褶皱造型影响的研究

Influence of Partial Knitting on Pleated Effect

采用同种纱线编织相同结构的30条针织短裙,将局部编织的选针数、横列数及密度这3个因素作为每10条针织短裙的变量,探究局部编织变量与针织物褶皱造型之间的定量关系。运用图像处理技术,提取针织短裙外轮廓造型特征的客观参数指标,最后用相关分析和回归分析进行数据处理。结果表明:对针织短裙褶皱造型的客观评价指标有显著影响的变量依次是横密、纵密与选针数,均会影响其外观形态;纵密对背面面积及平均正面裙摆展开角有显著正相关;横密对裙厚、正面面积及平均正面裙摆展开角有显著负相关;而选针数与裙宽、平均波谷半径及平均波纹深度也呈负相关。

Based on the evaluation of the appearance of knitted fabrics, studies are carried out on the influence of the constituent elements of partial knitting on the pleated effect of knitted garments. The same kind of yarn is applied to knit and produce 30 knitted skirts with same structure. Three factors, partial knitting needle selection,number of courses and density, serves as variables for every 10 knitted skirts to explore the quantitative relationship between partial knitting variables and knitted fabric’s pleated effect. The image processing technology is applied to extract the objective evaluation index of the outer contour of the knitted skirt. At last, the correlation analysis and regression analysis are used for data processing. The results show that the variables that have significant impact on the objective evaluation index of the pleated effect of the knitted skirt are weft density, warp density and the number of needles being selected, which all exert certain influence on the appearance of knitted short skirt. Warp density has a significant positive correlation with the back area and the average front skirt hem opening angle. On the contrary, the weft density presents an obvious negative correlation with skirt thickness, frontal area and the average front skirt hem opening angle. Besides, the number of needles that can be selected is also negatively correlated with the skirt width, average trough radius and average corrugation depth.