X型女西装腰省分配方法的建立

Establishment of waist darts distribution method for X-shape women′s suit

为研究服装结构参数对服装廓形的影响,提出一种以前后片胸腰差量为自变量的X型女西装的腰省分配计算方法。利用眼动追踪技术确定以胸腰差量作为X型女西装的廓形控制变量,以57款X型女西装纸样作为研究对象确立女西装基本型并建立版型数据库,运用SPSS统计软件进行描述性分析、相关性分析和回归分析,推导出基于前后片胸腰差量的各腰省量计算公式并运用到纸样设计中。通过CLO3D虚拟试衣和人台试穿实验表明,使用该线性回归关系辅助制图获得的X型女西装的廓形准确,结构线位置合理且松量适中,基于前后片胸腰差量的女西装结构设计方法可以满足结构设计要求。

The eye tracking technology was used to determine the chest-waist difference as the silhouette control variable of X-shaped women′s suits.57 X-shaped women′s suits were taken as the research object to establish the basic type of women′s suits and establish the pattern database.SPSS statistical software was used for descriptive analysis,correlation analysis and regression analysis.Then the data is analyzed by descriptive analysis,correlation analysis and regression analysis in SPSS to establish formula for pattern design,based on chest-waist difference in front piece and back piece.The CLO3D virtual fitting and dummy fitting experiments show that the X-shaped women′s suit obtained by the linear regression relationship is accurate,the structural line position is reasonable and the looseness is moderate,and the structural design method based on the chest-waist difference of front and back pieces can meet the requirements of structural design.