基于最小外包围的零松量男装原型理论与实践

Theory and Practice of Zero-Loose Menswear Prototype Based on Minimum Outer Envelop

为进一步揭示男装结构设计中服装与人体的关系,提高男上装制板的合理性,以男子上体结构为研究对象,运用图形学原理将躯干体表展开成体表原型,并根据服装结构原理设定体表原型转化为目标原型的构成要素及数据,从而得出基于人体躯干最小外包围的男装原型,并进一步通过三维数字人体虚拟衣身及成衣试穿,验证零松量男装原型的合理性与可行性。基于人体躯干最小外包围的零松量原型(即江服男装原型),能直观地反映人体与服装结构的关系,便于男装其他品类不同松量的加放,同时具有易记、易操作的优点,提高了男装制板的效率和造型的精准度,既适用于教学又适用于工业化生产。

To further reveal the relationship between clothing and the human body in the structural design of menswear,and improve the rationality of pattern-making for men's tops,the study took the structure of men's upper body as the research object and used the principles of graphics to expand the body surface of the torso into a body surface prototype.The prototype of the fixed body surface was transformed into the constituent elements and data of the target prototype,so as to obtain a menswear prototype based on the minimum outer envelope of the human torso.Then the rationality and feasibility of the menswear prototype with zero looseness were verified through the three-dimensional digital human virtual body and ready-to-wear try-on methods.The zero-loose prototype based on the smallest outer envelope of the human torso(ie the Jiangfu menswear prototype)could reflect the relationship between the essence of the human body and the clothing structure intuitively,facilitate the addition of any category of menswear with different loose weights,and be easy to remember and operate.The developed prototype could improve the efficiency of menswear plate-making and the accuracy of styling,which are suitable for teaching and industrial production.