对称循环渐变色彩设计及其色彩渐变纱纺制

Symmetrical periodic gradient color design and spinning of gradient colored yarns

针对传统纺纱技术无法精确调控纱线色彩分布规律纺制色彩渐变纱线的技术弊端,提出了在线调控成形纱线色彩渐变的三通道数控纺纱机制并成功纺制了色彩渐变纱。设计了三色彩纤的耦合-叠加混色模式,构建了包含全体混合子样的混合比矩阵、混合色谱矩阵及其混合色谱;基于混合比矩阵规划了行渐变、列渐变和对角渐变等3类渐变路径,并给出了对应的渐变色谱矩阵及其渐变色谱;以青、品红、黄色三基色粗纱为例,设计了三通道数控纺纱工艺并纺制了3类16种色彩渐变纱。结果表明:数字化调控纱线混合比纺制的渐变色纱,其针织物呈现出周期性自然柔和的渐变色彩;纺制的渐变色纱力学性能和外观品质与色纺纱指标接近,但仍有可提升空间。

Aiming at the technical drawback that traditional spinning technique cannot be accurately control the color distribution in yarns and hence is unable to spin gradient colored yarns,a three-channel numerical control spinning mechanism that regulates yarn color gradient online was put forward,and the gradient colored yarn was successfully produced.The coupling-combination color mixing mode of three colored fibers was designed,and the mixing ratio matrix,mixing chromatography matrix and mixing chromatography including all mixing samples were constructed.Three gradient paths,i.e.the row gradient,column gradient and diagonal gradient,were planned based on the mixing ratio matrix,and the corresponding gradient chromatography matrix and gradient chromatography were generated.Taking green,magenta and yellow colored rovings as an example,a three-channel numerical control spinning process was designed and three types of 16 gradient colored yarns were spun.The results show that the knitted fabric made from the gradient yarn spun by digitally adjusting the yarn blending ratio shows periodic natural and soft gradient colors.The mechanical properties and appearance of the gradient colored yarn are close to the corresponding indexes of color-spun yarn,but with rooms for improvement.