汉唐之际图像资料中的女性帔服形制类型探析

An Analysis of the Types of Chinese Female’s Pei Robe in the Image Files of the Han and Tang Dynasties

帔子一直被学界认为是盛行于唐代的女性服饰三件套的重要组成部分,以波斯、天竺、佛教艺术等外来因素影响说为代表。相关文字记载虽可上溯至汉魏,但存在着称谓混杂,形制不清等问题,且画像石、传世绘画、石窟墓葬壁画、出土俑像等图像资料中所表现出的该类服饰形制更为多样。帔子的形制在唐时虽已趋于稳定,但结合图像,对帔服的所有形制类型进行梳理,将有利于进一步厘清帔子的演变路径,认清其本质上应为一种“洋装”化的“土装”。

Chinese female’s Pei prevailed in the Tang Dynasty,and has always been considered as an important component of the essential three-piece suit of woman's dress with foreign elements of Persian,Indian and Buddhist art,which represents the mainstream understanding of the shape and style of Pei among the academia.The earliest written record of Pei can be traced back to the historical documents in the Han and Wei Dynasties,and Pei continued to be mentioned from time to time in the documents of the following Southern and Northern Dynasties as well as the Sui and Tang Dynasties.But compared with the rich image data,such as the paintings handed down from the ancient times,grotto murals,unearthed tomb murals,tomb figures,lines carved on sarcophagus,to name but a few,the written description of Pei’s shape and style is very limited and quite confusing,making the apparel’s evolution process a tangled disarray.So,in this paper,all kinds of image data will be taken into account so as to better trace back and sort out the types of the female Pei’s shape and style in ancient China,which will be helpful to further clarify the evolution process of Pei and understand it as the foreignized local dress.