冠作鸟象-唐代女子首服“鸟冠”考释

Crown as a Bird Statue:A Textual Research on the"Bird Crown"Worn by Women in the Tang Dynasty

如果我们观察唐代的视觉图像,会发现一种特殊的女子冠式,但在中国古代服饰史中却均未提及。经过笔者初步考证,此冠在当时应定名为“鸟冠”,这是一种统称,冠作不同造型的鸟象。本文就唐代女子首服鸟冠的形制、造型和佩戴人群等相关问题展开讨论,并对比了鸟冠中凤冠与凤形步摇钗的区别。本文采用物质文化研究的方法,通过文献与文物的比对分析,全面探讨了唐代女子首服“鸟冠”。

If we observe the visual images of the Tang Dynasty,we will find a special women's crown,but it is not mentioned in the history of ancient Chinese clothing.After the author's preliminary research,this crown should be named"bird crown"at that time,which is a general term.The crown is made of different shapes of bird.This paper discusses the shape,modeling and wearing crowd of women's first bird's crown in the Tang Dynasty,and compares the difference between the Phoenix crown and the Phoenix walking hairpin in the bird's crown.This paper adopts the method of material culture research,through the comparative analysis of literature and cultural relics,comprehensively discusses the bird's crown of women's first dress in the Tang Dynasty.