个性化文胸版型建立与优化

The establishment and optimization of individualized brassiere patterns

为解决手工制版及服装CAD系统推板工作效率低、文胸版型不能随着女性体型的变化而快速成版的问题,以上下两片罩杯文胸为例,运用Matlae软件为开发平台,依据文胸版型图的数学模型,编写数据自动化计算、纸样自动化生成的程序,并设置胸围和胸差为控制变量来驱动运行代码,以得到新的文胸版型,从而实现文胸版型的个性化定制。结果表明:通过胸围和胸差两个变量可实现文胸版型数学模型的建立,且通过这两个变量来驱动Matlae程序的运行,可以生成与该变量相应体型的文胸版型图,并且实现了在2~3 s内快速完成文胸版型随体型变化的自动制版、推板或更新,提高了个性化定制快速服务能力。

In order to solve the problem of inefficiency in manual plate making and pattern grading by garment CAD system,the inability of brassiere pattern formation with the change of female body shape,with the top-bottom two-piece up brassiere as examples,according to mathematical model of the brassiere pattern,a program for data automatic calculation and automatic pattern generation was written on Matlae software development platform.The chest circumference and chest difference were selected as the control variables to drive the program to obtain a new brassiere pattern for the purpose of an individualized customization of the brassiere pattern.The results show that it is feasible to establish a mathematical model of the brassiere pattern according to two variables of chest circumference and chest difference,which can also drive the Matlae program,and generate the bra pattern for corresponding body shape.In addition,automatic plate making,pattern grading and updating of the brassiere pattern can be realized with the change in body shape in 2-3 s,thus enhancing the rapid service capability of individualized customization.