敦煌写本P.2838《内家娇·丝碧罗冠》之服与妆考释

The Interpretation on the Clothing and Make-up of “Neijiajiao:Sibiluoguan” in Dunhuang Manuscript P.2838

[研究意义]关于敦煌写本P.2838所抄《云谣集·内家娇·丝碧罗冠》的写作年代,学界一直存在争议。[研究内容]文章从词之主人公的服饰与妆面切入,考证此衣着装扮在五代时亦为人喜爱,并通过词中女子的才情技艺进一步推测其身份,以期为词作写于五代时期提供佐证。文章主要采用考证的方法,梳理词中女主人公的冠、屐、髻、眉等款式在汉唐及五代的流行样态,且通过与《云谣集·内家娇·两眼如刀》的对比,探求词的写作年代。[研究结论]通过考释,可推知《云谣集·内家娇·丝碧罗冠》或写于五代,词之主人公颇有可能为后唐庄宗李存勖的皇后刘氏。

In Dunhuang manuscript P.2838, there are two ci-poems entitled “Neijiajiao”, respectively starting with “Sibiluoguan”and “Liangyanrudao”,both compiled into Yunyaoji(a collection of quzici, as part of the Dunhuang manuscripts). The first ci-poem is also found in P.3251, under the title of “An Imperial Creation:‘Neijiajiao’ in the linzhongshang style”, which indicates that the author is a monarch. According to other manuscripts of S.1441 and P.2838, the ci-poem was copied by hand in the Later Tang Dynasty(923–936) during the Five Dynasties period(907-960). It follows that the ci-poem could be possibly ascribed to LI Cunxu, Emperor Zhuangzong of Later Tang dynasty, a lover of dance and music as well as a great lyricist, and that the woman he praised was most probably his wife Empress LIU. Given the great similarities between the two Neijiajiao ci-poems in terms of content and style, the author of the second one was probably a contemporary of the first author, and both pieces of cipoems were probably dedicated to the same person.This paper analyzes the clothing and make-up of the heroine in the“Sibiluoguan”ci-poem, including her hat, clogs, chignon, and eyebrows, while comparing them with the fashions of the Han and Tang Dynasties as well as the Five Dynasties period, in order to corroborate the hypothesis that the ci-poems were created during the Five Dynasties period. Furthermore, the cipoems described the heroine as“innately agile”“capable of doing whatever she was taught”talented in “working jade and gold” and “not engaging with any ordinary man” which leads to the inference that she was probably none other than Empress LIU, Emperor Zhuangzong’s wife, as portrayed in the “Liangyanrudao” ci-poem. When Empress LIU was a child of humble origin, she was taken away by force by subordinate general YUAN Jianfeng to the court of Duke of Jin, father of Emperor Zhuangzong. Then she came to study under the tutelage of Empress Dowager Zhenjian, mother of Emperor Zhuangzong, and developed great skills in dancing and playing the Sheng(a reed pipe wind instrument) so well that she was “inexhaustible in her repertoire of lyrics-songs.”She caught the fancy of Emperor Zhuangzong with her intelligence and striking appearance and became his concubine. She gave birth to Jiji, a son that Emperor Zhuangzong loved so much that he lavished affection and attention upon her and finally promoted her to empress. A line in the “Sibiluoguan” ci-poem seems to do justice to her situation,“Except for waiting upon a monarch, she defies all the suitors of her time who are attracted to her good looks.”