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改革开放以来中国男式衬衫变迁(1978-2021年)

Changes of Chinese Men’s Shirts Since The Reform and Opening up(1978-2021)
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摘要 [研究意义和方法]针对中国改革开放以来男式衬衫变迁的问题,运用文献研究与实物分析的方法,[研究结果与结论]研究认为:中国男式衬衫从传统单式的形式逐渐向多元化、个性化、中性化的方面发展。(1)衬衫的面料从最初的天然面料演变为如今新技术带来的"新天然"面料,在衬衫制作过程,对于面料要求不仅要环保时尚,且加工也需要生态处理,减少了环境污染;(2)衬衫的款式变化不大,如今的衬衫整体廓形也基本如以前,主要变化来自于领型、袖口处等;(3)衬衫的风格种类越来越多,色彩不同于以前的单色调,而是根据潮流时尚顺时的推出多种流行色,衬衫纹样从简单向丰富发展。究其变迁的原因,主要有政治经济的调整、思想观念的转变,纺织技术的革新、中外文化的交流等因素影响。 In view of the changes of men’s shirts since China’s reform and opening up, this paper uses the methods of literature research and physical analysis to carry out in-depth development from the perspective of art and technology, science and culture, restores the form and origin of the changes of men’s shirts in this period, and finds that Chinese men’s shirts have gradually changed from the traditional single form to diversified, personalized neutral aspects of development. The research shows that :(1) with the continuous maturity of textile technology, the development of shirt fabric is gradually at the world advanced level. It has evolved from the original natural cotton fabric to the "new natural" fabric brought by new technology. Different from the past natural fabrics, "new natural" fabrics not only require the fiber source of the fabric itself to be green and natural, but also pay attention to ecological treatment in the process of fabric processing, reduce factory pollution and control from the source to reduce the environmental hazards caused by fabrics. On the one hand, the change of consumers’ love for fabrics reflects the progress of textile technology, on the other hand, it also implies the change of people’s consumption concept and life concept. With the rise of green and sustainable concepts, consumers pay more and more attention to clothing comfort and fabric environmental protection, which also gives birth to the use of more high-tech fiber materials on shirt fabrics. "New natural" fabrics have become the focus of current research and use.(2) Since the new era, the style of shirts has changed little. Now the overall outline of shirts is basically the same as before, retaining H-type, X-type and V-type. Therefore, the main changes of shirt style come from the collar type and cuff, among which there are many kinds of collar type changes. Cuff style from traditional to modern, its changes are very subtle and rich, and small changes highlight men’s different tastes. The specific changes of collar type and cuffs derive various forms with the style of shirt. Consumers can attend different occasions according to the collar type and cuff style and the fit of shirt.(3) There are more and more styles of shirts, and they began to enter the era of product style refinement.Shirts have experienced a series of style changes such as leisure and fashion, which makes shirts not only become the supporting role of suits, but also become the first choice for men’s clothing habits. The color of shirt is different from the single tone during the cultural revolution, but a variety of bold and avant-garde popular colors are introduced according to the international trend and the wind. Shirt patterns have developed from simple to rich. The pattern style of men’s shirts shows a trend of simplification,personalization and naturalization, and the pattern design is no longer based on Western patterns. Up to now, Chinese fashion designers have excavated many shirts with Chinese flavor from imitation to innovation. The patterns of Chinese traditional elements have been added to the design of men’s shirts in the 21 st century, which has emerged on the world stage. To sum up, shirts are more and more frequently worn as consumer necessities in China. The innovation of men’s shirts has brought consumers a more advanced clothing experience, and their styles, fabrics and colors are more novel and meet the needs of consumers. In the 1980 s,men’s shirts had a single type, and the shirt style was "imported" from the West. Men’s shirts in the 1990 s were diverse and innovative. In the 21 st century, Chinese people independently developed men’s shirts. As the 21 st century is an era of advanced science and technology, China’s economy is developing rapidly. Compared with the old century, men’s shirts in the new century tend to be personalized and diversified. The main reasons for its change are the adjustment of politics and economy, the change of ideas, the innovation of textile technology, the exchange of Chinese and foreign culture and so on. Since the beginning of reform and opening up, great changes have taken place in the fabric, style and style of men’s shirts. Through the specific analysis of the changes of Chinese men’s shirts since the reform and opening up, we can see the importance of men’s shirts in men’s clothing and the impact of social development on the changes of men’s shirts. China’s fashion design has gradually entered the front edge of fashion. In order to comply with this step, we should pay more attention to the design of men’s shirts, strive to highlight the traditional characteristics of Chinese culture in the design, and promote Chinese men’s shirts all over the world.
作者 库偲雨 刘勇 李斌 KU Siyu;LIU Yong;LI Bin(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;Wuhan Textile and Garment Digital Engineering Technology Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)
出处 《服饰导刊》 2022年第1期46-53,共8页 Fashion Guide
基金 国家社科基金艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。
关键词 改革开放 男式衬衫 款式 纹样 变迁 reform and opening-up men’s shirts style change fabric pattern changes
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