粤北排瑶“盘王印”服饰纹样研究

Study on the "Panwang’s Seal" Apparel Pattern of Pai Yao in Northern Guangdong Province

[研究背景与意义]"盘王印"纹样是瑶族典型的符号纹之一,具有特殊的装饰意义和较高的研究价值,深入研究排瑶"盘王印"纹样特征及其民族文化内涵,对坚持、发展和弘扬瑶族优秀传统文化具有重要意义。[研究方法]文章采用文献研究、实地调研、深度采访等方式,收集并整理了相关研究资料,归纳了连南排瑶"盘王印"纹样的文化内涵,并且从纹样造型、色彩表现及组织形式的角度,分析了"盘王印"纹样特点。[研究结果与结论]研究表明:连南排瑶"盘王印"纹样具有深厚的文化底蕴及独特的审美特征,在排瑶服饰应用上表现出极大的灵活性,并呈现代化、多样化的趋势发展。

The Liannan Yao Autonomous County is the only place of residence where the Paiyao People live over China and even over the whole world.The traditional culture of Yao nationality is relatively intact in there.The feature of Yao people is to worship and offer sacrifices to Panwang.As an important symbol of the Panwang culture,"Panwang's seal"is one of the typi⁃cal symbolic patterns of Yao nationality,which has profound meaning of decoration and high value for research.The Domestic scholars mainly studied the national history,traditional culture,embroidery techniques,costume patterns of Ruyuan Yao Nation⁃ality,from the perspective of their ancestor,life prototype,totem worship,language evolution,or using the methods of iconology to interpret the constitution form,theme background and cultural connotation of"Panwang's seal"from three levels of"prelimi⁃nary iconography analysis","iconography analysis"and"iconology interpretation".In contrast,there has been relatively little research on the"Panwang's seal"of Liannan Paiyao Nationality,although their embroidery pattern has distinct characteristics,and both Liannan and Ruyuan are located on the north of Guangdong Province.As a matter of fact,deeply excavating the nation⁃al cultural connotation and characteristics of"Panwang's Seal"pattern in Pai Yao,which is of great value and significance to for the protection and inheritance of excellent traditional culture of the Yao nationality.Based on the literature research,field investigation and in-depth interview,the important relevant research materials are collect⁃ed and sorted out.First of all,the team went to the Yao Nationality Museum in Guangdong,collected the patterns of Paiyao cos⁃tume by photographing the cultural relics,and then interviewed the local old Paiyao People and their inheritors of embroidery,who have the excellent technique of embroidery.Besides,the team also interviewed the staff of the cultural bureau in Liannan in order to get more useful information about the variety of“Panwang’s seal”pattern,embroidery skills and the folk legend of Pan⁃wang.Finally,according to the pictures,oral materials and theoretical researches,this paper sums up the cultural connotation and pattern features of the"Panwang's seal"in Liannan Paiyao,analyzed the different elements of the“Panwang’s seal”patterns,color representation and decorative application by means of comparative analysis.The"Panwang's seal"pattern is mainly composed of dragon horn pattern,eyeball pattern,diamond pattern,the"卍"pattern,bean pattern,grid pattern and so on.It can be classified into the traditional and modern version by the different combinations of pattern elements and color representation.The pattern molding of traditional"Panwang's seal"is relatively simple.The outside pattern element of traditional"Panwang's seal"is the dragon horns pattern,while the inner pattern element is completely differ⁃ent,thus it can be divided into three mainly types,which is called"the grid-shaped","diamond-shaped"and"eyeball-shaped"of"Panwang's seal"pattern.Generally,the traditional version of"Panwang's seal"embroidery pattern is a mono-colour,such as white,orange or red.As an independent pattern,it’s always showed on the national accessories like the women's headwear,man's cape or children’s hat of Paiyao People.However,the color representation of modern version of"Panwang's seal"is a highly intensity multi-colored pattern.In addition,according to the different construction of the internal patterns,the modern version of"Panwang's seal"pattern is constituted by three pattern elements at least,such as the diamond pattern,bean pattern,eyeball pattern and so on,which is applied as a continuous pattern and normally combined with the horse pattern,fan pattern and grass pattern,to decorate the Paiyao national costumes and bags in a regular organization with a strong sence of order.The research shows that the"Panwang's seal"embroidery pattern of Paiyao is a historical and cultural mark.It's an important symbol of ethnic identity,as well as a reflection of Paiyao people's aesthetic consciousness and expression of their personal emo⁃tions,which has the profound national culture and unique aesthetic characteristics.There are differences between the traditional and modern version of"Panwang's seal"embroidery pattern in the aspect of pattern modeling,color representation,application,etc.,which reflects the fact that the"Panwang's seal"embroidery pattern has gradually evolved in many years.Nowadays,the"Panwang's seal"embroidery pattern shows a great flexibility in the modeling,color matching,embroidery technique,fabric and decorative application with the change of Paiyao People's cognition of tradition pattern and the concept of contemporary aesthet⁃ics.It also implies that the decorative art of"Panwang's seal"presents the trend of modernization and diversification in the fu⁃ture.