立领结构参数对服装造型的影响

Influence of structural parameters of stand collar on clothing styling

为提升立领造型的合体性和美观性,探究立领结构参数与造型之间的关系并建立二者的理论模型,绘制不同领高、起翘量和领口旋转角度的64个立领样板,使用虚拟试衣技术完成立领二维到三维的转换,对立领造型参数进行测量,并对数据进行相关性分析、偏相关分析和回归分析。研究结果表明:立领造型参数与结构参数之间存在线性关系;领高与领深等7个造型参数具有相关性,起翘量与领上口弧线长度存在相关性,旋转角度与颈前空隙量等4个造型参数具有相关性;增加旋转角度后的立领合体性更好;运用结构参数与造型参数的回归方程进行立领结构设计,可以快速调整结构参数获得不同的立领造型。

In order to improve the fit and aesthetics of stand collar styling,explore the relationship between the structural parameters of stand collar and clothing styling and establish their theoretical models,64 stand collar designs were created with different collar heights,extent of warpage and collar rotation angles.By using virtual fitting technology,the transformation from two-dimensional design to three-dimensional design was completed.The stand collar styling parameters were measured,and the data was subjected to correlation analysis,partial correlation analysis,and regression analysis.The results show that there is a linear relationship between the styling parameters and the structural parameters of the stand collar.Collar height is correlated with 7 styling parameters including the collar depth,and the extent of warpage is related to the length of the top neckline.The rotation angle on the other hand is correlated with the 4 styling parameters such as the front neck allowance,whereas the stand collar fits better when an increased rotation.The regression model of structural parameters and styling parameters was obtained,which was used to design the stand collar structure,and the structural parameters can be quickly adjusted to obtain different stand collar styles.