饮食、文化与国族认同:社会史视角下日本料理的形成与变迁

Diet,Culture and National Identity:The Formation and Change of Japanese Cuisine from the Perspective of Social History

食物具备呈现集体意识和表述集体认同的作用,也能够作为“我是谁”的判断和解释。从中世传统的大飨料理、怀石料理到近世的折衷料理、战时的军事饮食体系乃至现代的“洋中和”多元料理,日本饮食体系在演变与建构的历史过程中受到国家政治、知识技术、帝国主义和经济扩张等驱动力共同模塑的影响。作为民族料理的典范,现代日本料理在承袭自中世以来各历史时期的饮食文化传统内核之基础上,也透过产业和文化政策的论述引导而成为认同的依据与工具,并最终达成了对内建立集体意识与国族认同、对外建构国家品牌与形象的目的。

Food has the value of expressing collective consciousness and cultural identity.It can also be used as a judgment and explanation of“who I am”.From traditional Diligence Cuisine and Kaiseki Cuisine in the middle ages to the eclectic cuisine in modern times,military diet system in wartime,and modern“Western-Japanese-Chinese”multiple cuisine,the Japanese diet system has been subject to the impact of conjunct moulding by driving forces such as national politics,knowledge and technology,imperialism and economic expansion.As a model of national cuisine,modern Japanese cuisine has inherited the core of food culture traditions in various historical periods since the middle ages.Japanese cuisine also become the basis and tool for identity by the discussion and guidance of industrial and cultural policies,and finally achieved the purpose of establishing collective consciousness and national identity internally and building the national brand and image externally.