拔染在棉织物扎染工艺中的应用研究

Research on the Application of Discharge in Tie-dyeing of Cotton Fabric

为了对棉织物扎染工艺进行创新,将靛蓝、直接染料或活性染料染色后的棉织物进行缝扎、捆扎或夹扎,再用拔染剂处理。根据拔染原理,靛蓝采用氧化剂高锰酸钾进行拔染,直接染料和活性染料采用还原剂保险粉进行拔染。结果表明:将拔染与扎染工艺相结合,以靛蓝、直接染料或活性染料为地色的棉织物均可实现与常规扎染相反的图案效果。由于染料的拔染性能不同,可实现半拔或全拔。三种地色染料相比,活性染料品种多、色谱齐、染色牢度好,最适合棉织物的地色拔染。

In order to innovate tie-dyeing process,cotton fabrics dyed with indigo,direct dyes and reactive dyes were treated with discharge agent after being tied by sewing,banding or clipping.According to the discharge principle,indigo were discharged with oxidizing agent KMnO 4,while direct dyes and reactive dyes were discharged with reducing agent Na 2S 2O 4.The results showed that cotton fabrics dyed with indigo,direct dyes and reactive dyes had opposite pattern effect to conventional tie-dyeing by combination of discharging and tie-dyeing.The fabrics can be discharged completely or incompletely due to the dye’s discharge performance.Among three kinds of dyes,reactive dyes had great variety,complete chromatography and good fastness,so they were best fit for discharge of cotton fabrics,can further enrich and supplement tie-dyeing process of cotton fabrics.