正视绘制法的衣领翻折基点简化确定

Simplified determination of collar rolling base point for front view drawing method

为了简化翻折领服装结构设计中翻折基点的确定方法,通过对翻折基点主要影响因素进行分析,构建了颈侧点处的翻领宽、领座高度、领座与水平线的夹角以及肩斜角对翻折领基点偏移量影响的数学模型。依据此模型,采用计算机遍历法绘制出各影响因素常用尺寸下的领截面图示并统计各尺寸对应翻折基点偏移量的数值,进一步使用SPSS回归分析出以上4种主要影响因素与翻折基点偏移量的关系,获得了仅需采用领座高和领座与水平线的夹角2个因素组成的翻折基点偏移量回归式。与正视绘制法相比,这一对基点偏移量的简化算法使用更为简便且决定系数可达0.906。

In order to simplify the method of determining the collar rolling base point,a mathematical model was constructed by analyzing the main influencing factors of the rolling base point offset,including the width of collar fall,the height of collar stand,the angle of collar seat at the neck side point and the shoulder slope angle.According to this model,the computer traversal method is used to draw cross-sectional illustrations under the commonly collar sizes and calculate the offset values corresponding to each size.Moreover,by analyzing the relationship between influencing factors and the offset of rolling base point,a simplified regression formula was obtained,which only needs to be composed of height and angle of collar stand.Compared with the front-view drawing method,this simplified algorithm for the determination of rolling base point is easier to use and the coefficient of determination can be 0.906.