凹凸式服装造型设计方法原理剖析与创新应用

Analysis of principles and innovative application of concave-convex clothing modeling design

凹凸式服装造型设计是近年服装立体造型设计中一种较为主流的设计方法。为明晰其设计原理,以省道转移理论为基础,分析了凹凸式服装的造型分类和设计方法,并以“矩形”和“S曲线”凹凸式服装造型为例加以验证。研究表明:凹凸式服装造型可分为装饰型、功能型和综合型3类。分割线是设计不同凹凸式服装造型的有效途径,其设计方法主要包括分割线的不同组合以及分割线与省道、褶裥之间的合理配伍等方式。此外,凹凸式服装造型对工艺的要求较高,尤其体现在对服装细节的处理上,所设计的2款凹凸式服装造型兼顾了造型与工艺的需求,可为服装造型创新设计和样板制作提供一定的参考价值。

Concave-convex style clothing design is a mainstream design method in three-dimensional clothing design in recent years.In order to clarify its design principles,the modeling classification and design methods of concave-convex clothing were analyzed based on the provincial road transfer theory,and the"rectangular"and"S-curve"concave-convex clothing modeling were used as examples to verify.Research shows that concave-convex clothing modeling can be divided into three types:decorative,functional and comprehensive.The dividing line is an effective way to design different concave-convex clothing styles,the design method mainly include the different combinations of dividing lines and the reasonable compatibility between the dividing lines and darts,pleats and so on.In addition,concave-convex garment modeling has higher requirements on technology,especially reflected in the processing of clothing details.The two concave-convex garment modeling designs take into account the needs of styling and technology,which can provide certain reference value for innovative design and sample making of clothing modeling.