沃斯高级女装腰臀部廓形设计研究——以巴斯尔裙撑女装为考察中心

Research on Waist-Hip Silhouette Design of House of Worth:Centered on the Examination of Bustle Women’s Dresses Center

自15世纪文艺复兴时期起,裙撑成为欧洲女装中的重要构成部分。从19世纪中期开始,纤细的腰肢成为衡量欧洲上流社会妇女优雅身姿的标准之一。Charles Frederick Worth(查尔斯·弗雷德里克·沃斯)从19世纪60年代开始直到去世后,一直影响着巴黎乃至欧美的高级女装,文章以沃斯高级女装为基础,重点研究沃斯高级女装中带有bustle(巴斯尔)裙撑部分的腰臀部设计,分析其出现的原因,廓形的变化情况以及设计特点。

Since the Renaissance period in the fifteenth century, skirt support has become an important component in European women’s clothing. From the mid-nineteenth century onward, a slim waist became one of the criteria for measuring the elegant figure of European upper-class women. Charles Frederick Worth influenced the high-class womenswear in Paris and even in European America from the 1860s until after his death. Based on Worth’s high-class womenswear, this paper focuses on the design of the waist and hip part of the dresses with the brace part of the bustle, and analyzes the reasons for its appearance, the changes of the silhouette and the design characteristics.