素纱襌衣的面料构成分析与复织

Fabric composition analysis and reweaving of the gauze gown in plain color

长沙马王堆汉墓出土的329-6直裾式素纱襌衣属于国宝级保护文物,是中国古代丝织技艺的杰出代表。本文基于前人研究成果和文物出土报告相关资料,深度探讨了组成面料的材料规格和组织结构,在有限接触原文物条件下,分析并补充了素纱襌衣的细部量化数据。经反复试验与校对,还原了素纱襌衣的版型结构、材料规格、组织结构、织造工艺和复织过程,并据此展开复织工作。通过实物对比,复织品的外观造型和质感风格还原度较高,整体质量仅46 g。本文的分析和复织工作为复原类似古丝绸文物提供理论与技术参考。

In the early 1970s,Mawangdui No.1 Han tomb beside Liuyang River in the eastern suburb of Changsha was successfully excavated,and the gauze gowns in plain color unearthed from it attracted extensive attention from people inside and outside the industry.The 329-6 gauze gown in plain color with straight style,cross collar and right lapel weighs only 49 grams in total.Except that the collar and cuffs are made of looped brocade with lining,the whole garment is woven from a plain square hole crepe that is thin and transparent.The gauze gown in plain color is as light as mist,and as thin as a cicada’s wings,and its exquisite manufacturing skills represent the highest level of sericulture,silk reeling and weaving technique in the early Western Han Dynasty.In 2002,the gauze gown in plain color was included in the"First List of Cultural Relics Prohibited from Going Abroad(Border)"by the National Cultural Heritage Administration,and it is collected by Hunan Museum now.However,in the past 50 years,the research on its pattern design,material specification,fabric weave and weaving technique has not been in-depth and complete.It is of great significance to deeply study the fabric composition and weaving process of the gauze gown in plain color to inherit the thousand-year-old silk weaving culture.This paper discusses its current information based on the related reports and relevant research books and documents.Through the limited observation and measurement of cultural relics,the patterns of the garment are drawn.According to the above research,the grammage and material specifications of the three fabrics that constituting the gauze gown in plain color-silk organdy,looped brocade,and the lining of looped brocade are calculated and analyzed.The weaves of the three fabrics are studied and drawn with the help of the partial enlarged pictures of cultural relics.This paper expounds in detail from the pattern grid drawing,the cross-stitch and plain-knit procedure,and the weaving process on account of the looped brocade with complex combined geometric patterns.In addition,the weaving process of silk organdy is supplemented.Finally,the replica is compared with the original.The pattern design,material specification,fabric weave,reweaving technique and process of three fabrics of the gauze gown in plain color are proposed through profound research and quantitative analysis,and the garment has been successfully rewoven.It is found that the gauze gown in plain color is composed of eight pieces,in which the waist width is corrected to be 46.00 cm,and the collar edge width is corrected to be 5.25 cm.The silk organdy is a of plain weave and square hole crepe weave.Looped brocade is a composite structure of plain weave warp brocade inserted with pile warp,a layer of which is based on triple plain weave warp brocade.The lining of the looped brocade is plain weave silk.The actual fineness of the warp and weft yarn of silk organdy is corrected to be 0.94 tex.In order to obtain the wrinkle effect resembling to the original,the silk thread with a linear density of 1.04 tex,degumming rate of about 20%,linear density of 1.08 tex and degumming rate of about 25%can be used in the warp and weft directions.The twist of the silk thread is 20-30 twists/cm,the weaving shrinkage is about 2%,and the refining shrinkage is about 8%.The gram weight of looped brocade and its silk lining is 13.5 g and 3.2 g,respectively,and the gram weight of silk organdy is corrected to be 32.3 g.The silk organdy and looped brocade should be woven by hand with horizontal wooden frame loom and the beam jacquard loom,respectively.The final replica well reproduces the unearthed original,with a gram weight of only 46 g.The profound study of the gauze gown in plain color in this paper is the reproduction of silk weaving technique in the Western Han Dynasty and the inheritance and protection of the ancient silk weaving culture.The relevant analysis and reweaving work can provide help for the research of garment pattern design and fabric composition in the Han Dynasty and provide theoretical and technical references for the restoration of similar ancient silk relics.