基于虚拟仿真技术的服装逆向流程优化设计

Reverse flow optimization design of garments based on virtual simulation technology

为优化三维虚拟试衣设计流程、缩短研发周期、提升研发效率,本文以连衣裙为研究对象,CLO3D虚拟试衣软件为研究手段,改变由二维样板生成三维样衣的传统虚拟试衣流程。首先采用逆向流程设计方法,以松量人体模型为参照绘制连衣裙基础廓形,通过拟合工具首先生成三维曲面样板,并根据直观着装效果对样板进行优化设计,直至得出最佳的三维曲面样板;然后在此基础上,通过软件的展平工具将三维样板自动生成为二维平面样板;最后通过对连衣裙的着装效果与舒适性进行主客观一致性验证可知,该方法在实现连衣裙样板快速成型的同时,由于连衣裙着装效果直观可见,也保证了二维样板的准确性。

With the rapid development of digital and intelligent garment industry,as well as the rapid growth of individualized garment demand,consumers’demand for clothing is not limited to a single homogeneous model,but more attention has been paid to the quality of clothing,modeling and the pursuit of comfort.In view of this situation,this article takes dresses as the research object,CLO3D virtual fitting software as the research method,and changes the traditional 2D patterns to generate the virtual fitting process of the 3D patterns.In order to improve the speed and efficiency of garment pattern generation,the reverse process design method is adopted,which firstly creates 3D surface patterns and then quickly generates 2D plane patterns.First of all,taking the ease allowance mannequin as the reference,the author draws the basic structure outline of the dress according to the style requirement,and uses the fitting tool in the software to fit the ease allowance mannequin with the clothing,that is,to create a dress surface close to the human body on the surface of the ease allowance mannequin.Then,the ease allowance mannequin is transformed into the base mannequin,and the structure and shape of the dress can be directly modified and adjusted to ensure that the dress structure shape is consistent with the actual style according to the dress effect of the basic mannequin.Next,the modified and fitted surface of the dress is hardened to make the whole surface of the dress smooth and consistent with the ease allowance mannequin curve.Then the final 3D surface pattern of the dress is obtained.The surface of the human body is uneven,so in the process of flattening out the curved surface of the dress to obtain the 2D plane pattern,it is necessary to use the dart design in the traditional plane pattern making way to design and modify the internal structure modeling of the pattern,and eliminate the redundant part of the fabric through the dart.According to the actual style of the dress,the positions and shapes of the bust and waist of the dress and the horizontal division of the waist are drawn on the curved pattern.The scissors of CLO3D are used to cut the darts of each part in turn,so as to ensure that the 3D curved pattern can be correctly paved into the 2D plane pattern.Next,with the flatting tool of the software as the plate tool,the curved surface is automatically flattened to realize the reverse flow from 3D surface template to 2D plane template.The sewing tool in CLO3D virtual fitting software is used to do the virtual fitting of the basic mannequin of the dress,and the pressure test tool in the software is used to test the clothing pressure of the virtual fitting results.The result shows that the dressing effect of the virtual fitting is consistent with that of the actual dress style,and the overall clothing pressure of the dress belongs to blue low pressure.It shows that the pressure of the dress is low and the comfort of the dress is high.On this basis,the conclusion of reverse flow design is further verified.First,the original fabric parameter settings are changed.Two different settings are made for the fabric parameters to obtain two fabrics with different components and texture,namely,the 0.47 mm thick fabric made of 95%polyester and 5%spandex and 0.36 mm thick fabric made of cotton.The virtual fitting is carried out again according to the same experimental process,and the dressing effect of the virtual fitting is also in line with the dress style requirements.Three garments are made by using the dress plane pattern modified by virtual fitting,and five female subjects are selected to try on the dress samples respectively.The results of the fitting are compared with the virtual fitting results,and the participants are asked to give subjective ratings on the comfort of the dress according to their own feelings.The results show that the shape and comfort of garments are consistent with the virtual fitting results,which verifies the feasibility and accuracy of the one-time rapid prototyping of the sample by reverse process design.CLO3D virtual fitting software can optimize the accuracy of garment patterns greatly because of its powerful functions such as efficient online revision,visual dressing effect and real-time synchronization of plate data.Combined with the reverse process design method,it can shorten the research and develop cycle,improve the research and develop efficiency and the satisfaction of consumers.The research results can be used for reference in the technology and method of intelligent manufacturing in garment industry.