论胡饼在唐代社会中的流行

On the Popularity of Hubing in the Tang Dynasty

作为“胡风饮食”的代表,胡饼在唐代社会中的流行反映出唐人真实的社会生活风貌。唐代胡饼的流行是全社会性的,既是帝王恩赐僧侣的斋物,又是普通百姓常见的吃食。其流行范围远未局限于帝都长安,而是遍及唐帝国疆域之内。“鬻饼胡”之逐利,则说明胡饼的经营与唐代社会经济和商业的发展密切相关。坊内经营的胡饼铺,乃是研究唐代坊市分离格局逐渐打破、唐代社会出现显著转型的重要材料。胡饼铺实质上是唐代小型餐饮经营的典型缩影,简单的经营内容、位于居民区内的经营场所反映出唐代小型餐饮业的真实状况。至于唐代胡饼制法的精进,则是将外来文化吸收并内化的过程。制作胡饼的原料不断丰富,胡饼大小出现差异,从烤制胡饼到蒸胡饼的出现,显示出唐人对胡风的演化和改造。

As the representative of Hu-styled dietary,the popularity of Hubing in the Tang Dynasty reflected the real social lifestyle of the Tang people.Not only as a vegetarian gift from emperors to monks but also as a common food for ordinary people,Hubing enjoyed great popularity in the Tang Dynasty.Not limited to the imperial capital city of Chang'an,its popularity was throughout the territory of the Tang Empire.The pursuit of profits from selling Hubing showed that the business of Hubing was closely related to the development of the social economy and commerce in the Tang Dynasty.Hubing shops in the residential areas(Fang in Chinese pinyin)was an important material for studying the gradual breaking of the separation pattern of the residential areas and the markets in the cities of the Tang Dynasty and the significant transformation of the society in the Tang Dynasty.Hubing shops were essentially a typical epitome of small-scale catering business in the Tang Dynasty.The simple business and shops in the residential areas reflected the real situation of the small-scale catering industry in the Tang Dynasty.As for the refinement method of making Hubing in the Tang Dynasty,it was a process of absorbing and internalizing foreign cultures.The raw materials for making Hubing were constantly enriched,the size of Hubing varied,and the cooking of Hubing was changed from baking to steaming,all showed the evolutions and transformations of Hu-styled dietary.