饮食文化叙事与铸牢中华民族共同体意识:广西米粉文化溯源

Narrative of Diet Culture and Forging a Sense of Community for the Chinese Nation:Tracing to the Source of Guangxi Rice Noodle

广西各民族在长期的交往交流交融中形成并构建了当地的饮食文化叙事。米粉是广西饮食民俗的重要代表,首府南宁汇集了广西各地的米粉名吃,形成了以南宁老友粉、桂林米粉和柳州螺蛳粉为代表的米粉文化叙事,蕴含着丰富的铸牢中华民族共同体意识。秦始皇征岭南、修灵渠而形成的“米粉秦朝论”塑造了南宁米粉文化溯源叙事链的时空基因;各民族交往融合构成南宁米粉典故的地域性和民族性;酸、辣、鲜、香为一体的“和合四味”反映南宁米粉制作技艺的“和合”思想,体现广西各民族的多重多向互动。研究广西米粉文化叙事,不仅可以丰富广西米粉文化内涵,同时也能推动广西铸牢中华民族共同体意识的具体实践。

This paper focuses on an investigation of the“Big Three”of Guangxi rice noodles,namely“Nanning Old friends Noodles,”“Guilin Rice Noodles,”and“Liuzhou River Snails Rice Noodles.”The goal of this article is to explore the space-time genes of the narrative chain of Guangxi rice noodle culture,the regional or ethnic characteristics of the allusions of the rice noodles and explain the cultural connotation of“harmony”contained in this particular food culture.This is not only meant to be a positive exploration of the repositioning and development direction of Guangxi rice noodle culture but also a practical study of the promotion of Guangxi aimed at forging a strong sense of community for the Chinese nation.Food may reflect the customs and living habits of people in a certain place,and therefore the narrative of food has often been considered important.The description of a cuisine arguably has four main directions:First,there is the historical and cultural narration of a diet.It mainly tells about the food s origin,spreading,related stories,legends,proverbs,as well as related folk customs such as etiquette rules,beliefs,and taboos.The second one is the functional narrative of a cuisine.It mainly describes how a style of cooking can satisfy the basic physiological needs of a human body,for example appetite,energy,and nutrition,as well as the potentially pleasant taste experience or possible health benefits and medicinal effects.Third,the narrative of cooking techniques;this mainly refers to the ingredients and seasonings,material combination,kitchen equipment,preparation methods,production procedures,and the labor and attitude of the cooks.Fourth is the ecological narrative surrounding the comestibles.This mainly tells about the uniqueness and harmonious nature of the food whose ingredients are locally and naturally sourced,about climatic influences,cookery modes,lifestyles,and other aspects.These four directions are said to constitute the narrative roots of food culture.After a long period of interaction and integration,the various ethnic groups of Guangxi seem to have been able to form and construct a narrative of Guangxi s diet culture.Part of this are the rice noodles that indeed are an important representative of Guangxi s popular food culture.Nanning has been gathering famous rice noodle dishes from all over Guangxi,constructing a cultural narrative of rice noodles.The communication and integration among various ethnic groups forms the regional and ethnic characteristics of the allusions to Nanning rice noodles.The“harmonious four-taste”composed of sour,spicy,fresh,and fragrant flavors conceivably reflect the concept of“harmony”in the preparation techniques of Nanning rice noodles,displaying a multi-directional interaction between various ethnicities in Guangxi.A study of the narration of Guangxi rice noodle culture can not only enrich the cultural understanding of Guangxi rice noodles but also present a real-life example of forging a sense of community for the Chinese nation in Guangxi.