设计主导下当代土家织锦生产的问题与风险

Problems and Risks of Design-led Contemporary Tujia Brocade Production

当代土家织锦的生产正经历着设计者与制作者相分离的重要转变。设计者通过“降低工艺难度”“剔除手工性”“增强故事性”的方式,不断弱化织造工艺和织造群体的价值,并就此获得了织锦生产的主导权。服务于商业资本逻辑的设计主导生产后,手工艺人对技艺和本土文化的所有权遭到剥夺,由此带来了“去技艺化”“去主体化”“去意义化”的风险。设计的助推与动力作用不应以遮蔽手工艺人群体的创作力与文化主体性为代价。正视设计主导当代传统手工艺生产可能产生的问题,才能更好地探索传统手工艺当代传承与发展的路径。

The production of contemporary Tujia brocade has been undergoing an important transformation that the designers have detached from the producers.By means of"decreasing the difficulty of craftsmanship","eliminating the necessity of hand-made process"and"enhancing the narrative values",the designers constantly weakened the values of weaving craftsmanship and weaving artisan group,and thus have obtained the dominating power of brocade production.After the design which serves the commercial capital logic dominates the production,craftsmen’s ownership of craftsmanship and local culture has been deprived,which induces the risks of"de-skilled","de-subjectivity"and"de-significance".The boosting and dynamic role of design should not be at the cost of concealing the creativity and cultural subjectivity of the artisan group.What should be done is to face up to the possible problems when design leads the production of contemporary traditional handicrafts,so as to explore a better path of contemporary inheritance and development of traditional handicrafts.