服装与政治:近代以来服装变革中的政治记忆

Clothing and Politics:Political Memory in the Change of Clothing since Modern Times

[研究意义]对近代以来服装变革的研究,有助于回顾人民群众从麻木、沉默、彷徨到醒悟、呐喊、求索之觉醒和奋斗历程,总结蕴含其中的历史经验和把握现象背后的历史规律。[研究方法]文章以实证研究法和历史制度主义研究法相结合,探究了近代以来服装变革与政治记忆的互动关系,以及相关联的一些基本问题。[研究结果与结论]研究认为:近代以来中国的大动荡与大变革中,服装作为一种独具特色的非文本媒介,记忆着时代主题、社会发展和人们思想感情的变化,表现出特质鲜明的政治元素。从传统社会向近世的被动转型,从旧社会到新时代的沧桑巨变,服装见证了民族从沉沦到复兴的不屈、抗争与奋斗之旅,服装及其所蕴含的政治元素成为观察与记忆社会变迁的独特符号。

In the great turbulence and transformation of China since modern times,clothing as a unique non-textual medi⁃um,remembers the theme of the times,social development and changes in people's thoughts and feelings,and shows distinctive political elements.Opening the historical picture scroll,we can see the Qing Dynasty's obstinacy and struggle under the attack of the European wind and the American rain,each class of advanced individuals surrender and struggle,the Chinese Kuomintang military rule,political tutelage and constitutional government,the implementation of the strategy,the Chinese com⁃munist party in revolution,construction and reform in the great struggle and great achievements,especially the people from numbness,silence,hesitation to wake up,shouting,search for awakening and struggle,and all these are reflected in the changes of clothing in different degrees.Or further,from the traditional society to the modern passive transformation,from the old society to the new era of the vicissitudes of the vicissitudes of the great change,clothing has witnessed the nation from the decline to the revival of the unyielding,struggle and struggle journey,clothing and its political elements have become a unique symbol of ob⁃servation and memory of social changes.