“浮纹绮”组织结构与织造工艺分析

Analysis on the weaving structure and technology of "Floating Pattern Qi"

“浮纹绮”是一种传统提花织物,由某学者命名。“浮纹绮”类丝织品出土于陕西宝鸡茹家庄西周墓、湖北随县曾侯乙墓、湖北枣阳九连墩楚墓等西周至春秋战国时期的多个墓地,获得多块文物,虽纹样不同但组织结构相同。学术界对此类文物结构各自观点不同,本文对其进行了结构与工艺的分析。分析结果表明,“浮纹绮”结构不属于双层、双重(经或纬)组织,为简单提花组织;“浮纹绮”延续了商代经显花的方法,是一块经显花暗花绮;周代“浮纹绮”与殷商“隔经绮”显花原理的区别在于,“浮纹绮”除了地经纱、花经纱分工外,还依靠纬纱一梭地一梭花交替织造显花,经纬纱同时分工协作。对纬纱作用的关注,这与殷商时期的显花工艺有质的区别。本文从结构与工艺分析了“浮纹绮”结构转变成经重组织的过程与原因,以此证明“浮纹绮”的确是由简单组织向经重组织过渡的一种尚未成熟的组织结构。

"Floating Pattern Qi",named by some researchers,is a special type of ancient silk pattern fabrics."Floating Pattern Qi" type of warp-patterned silks was first unearthed in the Western Zhou Dynasty tomb in Rujiazhuang,Baoji,Shaanxi Province.Later,many cultural relics were acquired in many tombs from the Western Zhou Dynasty to the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period,such as the tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng in Suixian County,Hubei Province,and the Chu Tombs in Jiuliandun,Zaoyang County,Hubei Province.They are are different in patterns and same in weaving structures.The academic researchers have different views on the weave of this kind of cultural relics.The studies on the weaving structure of "Floating Pattern Qi" are of great value for revealing the weaving structure characteristics of the Shang and Zhou Dynasties and the emergence of ancient warp compound weave.In the paper,the descriptions about "Floating Pattern Qi" from archaeological documents are analyzed and the problems are pointed out.Then the article takes the "Floating Pattern Qi" unearthed from the tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng as an example,studying the weaving structure and weaving technology.Finally,four important conclusions are drawn as follows:ⅰ) "Floating Pattern Qi" silk is of monolayer dark floral patterns and simple figured texture weave rather than double or warp/weft compound weave.Therefore,the silk woven by the weave is called "Qi".ⅱ) "Floating Pattern Qi" silk,inheriting the warp pattern method of the Shang Dynasty,is of warp floating patterns rather than weft floating patterns.ⅲ) The essential distinctions between "Floating Pattern Qi" from the Zhou Dynasty and "Plain Warp and Pattern Warp Spaced Qi" from the Shang Dynasty lie in that,not only the ground warp and the pattern warp work in cooperation with each other,but the alternate weaving of a ground warp and a pattern warp is needed.In a word,warp and weft yarns work together with a clear division of work.Paying attention to the role of weft yarn makes the principle essentially different from that of floating patterns in the Shang Dynasty.ⅳ) It proves from the characteristics in weaving structure and weaving technology that the weave of "Floating Pattern Qi" plays a transitional role between the single warp floating patterns and warp compound weave,greatly promoting the invention of double warp weave.In brief,from the two aspects of weaving structure and weaving technology,the article extensively discusses the characteristics of the "Floating Pattern Qi" in weaving structure and the evolution process and reasons from single warp floating pattern to warp compound weave.On the one hand,the views from the documents about the weave of "Floating Pattern Qi" are analyzed.On the one hand,it is believed that the structure of "Floating Pattern Qi" belongs to a transitional pattern by analyzing the floating pattern and weaving technology.In this paper,the different views of academia on the weaving structure of "Floating Pattern Qi" are corrected and why "Floating Pattern Qi" structure is a transition structure to warp compound structure is clearly explained.We hope to provide some ideas for future researches.