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基于黎锦符号象征的审美分析

Aesthetic Analysis Based on Li Brocade Symbolism
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摘要 由于黎锦与服饰的关系十分密切,黎锦的色彩系统、纹样系统和形制系统也具有符号性的能指和所指功能,它覆盖形式和内容两个层面。这两个层次之间的关系与黎锦符号象征意义的产生、发展和演变都有其内在的规律。黎锦经历了一系列文化变革的创新和甄选,在几千年的历史发展过程中逐渐形成,最终被黎族人民普遍接受。在历史创作过程中,黎锦不仅体现了自身的象征特性,而且与更广阔的象征体系紧密联系。黎锦与当地群众的生活密切相关,被严格区分并用于各种出生仪式、婚礼、葬礼以及祖先崇拜仪式、和精神仪式。因此,黎锦是有当地民族特色的符号象征系统。黎族人民通过纺、染、织绣,表达了他们的观念及行为方式。作为一种符号象征,黎锦的象征意蕴隐藏在色彩的选择和运用里,体现在纹样及其图案的织造上,最终在惯制上形成一种和谐有序的统一象征体。 Due to the close relationship between Li brocade and clothing,the color system,pattern system and shape system of Li brocade also have symbolic signifier and signified functions,which cover two levels of form and content.The relationship between these two levels and the generation,development and evolution of the symbolic meaning of Li brocade symbols have their inherent laws.Li Jin has undergone a series of innovations and selections of cultural changes,gradually formed in the course of thousands of years of historical development,and was finally generally accepted by the Li people.In the process of historical creation,Li brocade not only reflects its own symbolic characteristics,but also is closely related to a broader symbolic system.Li Jin is closely related to the life of the local people and is strictly distinguished and used in various birth ceremonies,weddings,funerals,ancestor worship ceremonies,and spiritual ceremonies.Therefore,Li brocade is a symbolic symbol system with local national characteristics.The Li people express their ideas and behaviors by spinning,dyeing,and weaving embroidery.As a kind of symbolic symbol,the symbolic meaning of Li brocade is hidden in the selection and application of color,and it is reflected in the weaving of patterns and patterns,and finally forms a harmonious and orderly unified symbolic body in practice.
作者 刘雅婷 张来鹏 杨紫薇 于晓华 Liu Yating;Zhang Laipeng;Yang Ziwei;Yu Xiaohua(Hainan University,Haikou Hainan 570100)
机构地区 海南大学
出处 《流行色》 2022年第4期58-60,共3页 Fashion Color
基金 海南省社科基金项目《黎族服饰文化衍生产品的视觉符号研究》阶段性成果(编号:HNSK(YB)19-20) 2020年度海南省高等学校科学研究一般项目《海南黎族服饰文化视觉符号的创新保护研究》成果(编号:Hnky2020-17)。
关键词 黎锦 纹样 色彩 美学 Li brocade pattern color aesthetics
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