从服饰到符号:侗族银饰消费认同建构研究

From Costume to Symbol: The Construction of Dong Minority’s Silver Jewelry Consumption Identity

在解读侗族银饰从服饰体系中独立后呈现的现代性转换趋势上提出符号转化的可能,并以印第安银饰品牌Goro’s进行个案分析,认为消费情感嫁接实现了民族图腾到消费符号意义的迁移,意见领袖推动了符号神话体系的构建,而根植于本土文化则进一步深化了文化消费的潜力。符号消费视角下侗族银饰消费认同可以从以下三个路径进行构建:深挖文化内涵,重构侗族银饰符号意义;强化协同设计,提升设计群体素养;创新商业模式,培育亚文化消费群体。

The article interprets the trend of modernity transformation of Dong minority’s jewelry after its independence from the costume system, based on which it proposes the possibility of its symbolization. Taking the Indian silver jewelry brand Goro’s as a case study to argue that the grafting of consumption emotion realizes the migration of national totem to consumption symbolic meaning, opinion leaders promote the construction of symbol myth system, and rooted in local culture further deepens the potential of cultural consumption. From the perspective of symbolic consumption, Dong minority’s silver jewelry consumption identity can be constructed from the following three paths: digging deeper into cultural connotation and reconstruct the symbolic meaning of Dong minority’s silver jewelry;Strengthening collaborative design and improving the quality of design groups;Innovating business models and cultivate sub-cultural consumer groups.