宋代展脚幞头的设计特征与设计思想解析

On the Design Characteristics and Thoughts of Hard-textured Turban in the Song Dynasty

“长如直尺”的展脚幞头是宋代最具视觉识别性的男性首服,然当代学术界对其研究却相当匮乏。通过对古文献的爬剔梳理,分析宋代展脚幞头的文化生态,厘清展脚幞头形制特征,进而解析展脚幞头的设计思想。有利于细化中国古代服饰史类研究,助力相关研究走向专、精、深。同时,愈小而大,可从全新的视角审视宋型衣冠的审美意趣。

The kerchief with straight wing-like foot which is as along as a ruler is the most recognizable male dress in the Song Dynasty. But there is few study in the current academic research. In this paper, the writer analyzes the cultural ecology of the kerchief in the Song Dynasty through the comprehensive reading and carding of ancient literature. Under this premise, the writer clarifies the features of the kerchief and reveals the design thinking. Through the investigation on the kerchief, this essay can make a little contribution on the research on the Chinese ancient costumes and help other related researches to be more specialized and deep. At the same time, as the smaller can reflect the larger, this essay can bring readers an aesthetic interest on the view of the Song-style dresses in a brand new perspective.