基于宋代理学视角袆衣艺术特色研究

Research on artistic characteristics of Huiyi from the perspective of Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty

宋代理学思想具有思辨性、包容性、统一性等特征,经过对传世画作与文献资料查阅研究,可以看出宋代理学思想对宋代服装有所影响。文章采用图像学和文献研究法相结合方式,通过对《宋仁宗后坐像轴》传世画作和相关文献资料的分析,以及对历代纹样记载的查阅,结合宋朝时代背景,研究宋代理学视角下的袆衣艺术特色。通过研究发现,宋朝袆衣形制具有传承性,体现宋代理学中“诚”的本源观点,注重“仁”的境界,蕴涵“天理”的等级秩序观念。研究阐释了中国古代服饰衣以载道的思想,进而为现代服装设计提供参考依据和设计思路。

The Neo-Confucianism thought in the Song Dynasty is one of the thoughts that have far-reaching influence on the feudal society of China.It is a new ideological system which is dominated by Confucianism and integrates the essence of Buddhism and Taoism.It has the characteristics of dialectical thinking,inclusiveness and unity,and some of the thoughts are still applicable in today’s society.In recent years,China has attached more importance to traditional culture.In 2017,the General Office of the CPC Central Committee and the General Office of the State Council issued a notice entitled"Opinions on Implementing the‘Project on Inheritance and Development of Outstanding Chinese Traditional Culture’",which points out that outstanding traditional Chinese culture is a prominent advantage of contemporary China.Huiyi is the highest level of clothing for queens in the Song Dynasty,which is of high specification,heritability,integrated philosophy,politics and aesthetics,and contains deep traditional Chinese culture.There are few relevant materials for studying the effects of artistic characteristics from the perspective of Neo-Confucianism of the Song Dynasty.This research explains the ancient Chinese clothing of carrying the idea of Taoism,and provides reference and design idea for the design of clothing with cultural heritage of the Song Dynasty.In order to promote applicability of traditional costume culture and modern design,this paper studies the artistic features of Huiyi from the perspective of Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty by means of the combination of iconography and literature research.Firstly,by analyzing the Sitting Portrait Scroll of Song Renzong’s Empress,the paper clarifies that the Neo-Confucianism of the Song Dynasty and the clothing system form a connecting link between the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Qing Dynasty.To some extent,the handed-down paintings of the Song Dynasty can make up for the shortage of"many words and few pictures"in research.On this basis,it studies the relevant materials of Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty,and explores the relationship between the Neo-Confucianism of the Song Dynasty and the shape and pattern of Huiyi by taking the background of the Song Dynasty into consideration.The paper concludes that the original view of"sincerity"in Neo-Confucianism is related to the inheritance of the rites of the Zhou Dynasty;the selection of the theme of the long-tailed pheasant pattern and dragon pattern,the clothing system adopted,and the arrangement and number of patterns are closely related to Neo-Confucianism’s emphasis on"heavenly principle"and"respect for heaven";the color scheme of dark green and crimson reflects the idea of"benevolence"in Neo-Confucianism,and the proportion of color matching of patterns reflects the golden mean in Neo-Confucianism.On this basis,the article studies the artistic features of the Song Dynasty Huiyi,and the conceptual features of Neo-Confucianism that its shape,pattern and color matching reflect from the perspective of Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty.It is found that the clothing system,pattern,color matching and so on are closely related to Neo-Confucianism.Among them,the shape of Huiyi is adjusted according to the rites of the Zhou Dynasty,which reflects the rigid feudal hierarchy in the concept of"heavenly principles"in Neo-Confucianism;the patterns are arranged in order to follow the divine Tao,and the clothing patterns are in twelve lines which represent the idea of"respect for heaven";the color matching corresponds to five directions(east,north,west and south,and the center)and five elements(metal,wood,water,fire and earth),which connects the Yin-Yang theory in Neo-Confucianism;the dark green and black red of Huiyi respectively representing the"black"heaven and"yellowish red"earth reflect people’s lofty respect for heaven and earth,harmony between man and nature,with heaven and earth as well as the ideological realm of"benevolence"in Neo-Confucianism;the balance of color matching unveil the golden mean.In this paper,the authors have summarized the Neo-Confucianism thoughts and artistic features contained by Huiyi of the Song Dynasty by studying the artistic characteristics of the Song Dynasty Huiyi from the perspective of Neo-Confucianism.At the same time,connecting ancient and modern with Neo-Confucianism,the paper explains the thought of Chinese traditional clothing to carry the idea of Taoism,which provides a reference and design idea for design of clothing related to the Song Dynasty.