丝绸之路视角下新疆出土龟甲纹织物及其工艺研究

Research on the tortoiseshell fabric and its craftsmanship unearthed in Xinjiang from the perspective of the Silk Road

至北朝起龟甲纹成为丝绸纹样中一种流行题材。文章通过对新疆出土龟甲纹纺织品的梳理,对比、归纳中亚、西亚与中国织物织造特点。采用文献与出土实物对证研究,呈现新疆纺织由以毛为主逐渐转为以丝为优的历程,佐证丝绸之路上织造技艺的交流互动。研究表明:早在汉代之前,起源于埃及的龟甲纹毛织物织造技艺与新疆纺织业有互动。汉代丝绸之路进一步畅通,汉民族的丝绸既满足了中亚、西亚人民对丝绸的需求,也刺激了西域人民学习汉民族的养蚕织丝技艺,并形成了具有地方特色的丝织造技术。丰富多样的龟甲纹织物反映出新疆地区对相邻文明吸纳与本土化的融合创新过程,显示出一个民族心灵的提升与追寻超越智慧的历程。

The tortoiseshell pattern in Chinese textiles first appeared in ancient Xinjiang woolen fabrics,but going back to its origins,we will find that there are examples of this pattern being skillfully and ingeniously applied in Egyptian clothing as early as 3000 years ago.The spread of the tortoiseshell pattern in textile technology indicates that technical exchanges along the Silk Road have long existed.In Xinjiang during the Eastern Han Dynasty,the tortoiseshell pattern was seen in main categories of wool fabrics such as wool tapestries,woolen rugs,and tufting fabrics.The exquisitely weaved tortoiseshell pattern with rich colors fully reflected the development level of Xinjiang wool textile patterns at that time.Ancient Xinjiang wool fabric is also introduced in many Chinese classics.With further development of the Silk Road in the Han Dynasty,economic and cultural exchanges between Xinjiang and Chinese mainland were increasingly strengthened.The exquisite silk crafts of the Central Plains were first spread to Xinjiang.People in Xinjiang began to learn to raise silkworms and weave silk,but due to differences in social culture,religious beliefs and textile habits,the brocade woven locally in Xinjiang has its own distinct uniqueness.Tortoiseshell textiles woven by Central Plains weaving system and Central Asia weaving system are well preserved in Xinjiang,demonstrating the glory of this fashionable pattern.Therefore,the studies of tortoiseshell pattern textiles and related technology unearthed in Xinjiang are of great value to explore the development history of textile technology,which proves that the transmission of physical objects and technology along the Silk Road has always been bidirectional.This essay traces the applications of tortoiseshell patterns in textiles using a combination of ancient paintings,ancient texts and ancient textile technology.And by analyzing the weaving characteristics of tortoiseshell pattern fabrics unearthed in Xinjiang based on the characteristics of textile jacquard techniques in Chinese mainland,Central Asia and West Asia,we draw these three conclusions:ⅰ)As early as the Han Dynasty,the weaving technology of tortoiseshell wool originated in Egypt interacted with the textile industry in Xinjiang.ⅱ)The Silk Road in the Han Dynasty was further developed,and the silk of the Han ethnic group not only met the needs of the people of central and Western Asia for silk,but also stimulated the people of the Western Region to learn to silkworm raising and silk weaving skills of the Han ethnic group,and the silk weaving technology with local characteristics was formed.ⅲ)Local brocade technology in Xinjiang was also used for reference and learning by Central Plains weavers to create a new jacquard weaving system.Central Plains weavers integrated their national aesthetic preferences and designed the tortoiseshell patterns that originally had a Western style into a pattern with unique oriental cultural attributes.This essay delves deep into systematically sorting out the technical characteristics of tortoiseshell pattern fabrics unearthed in Xinjiang.The scope of this research is not limited to the discussion of the development of local ancient textile technology in Xinjiang,but rather placing Xinjiang as the transfer station of the Silk Road that connected the Central Plains,Central Asia and West Asia through technical changes of the tortoiseshell pattern as observed through the innovative process of absorbing and localizing neighboring civilizations in Xinjiang.