台湾高山族北赛夏人与泰雅人服饰特点比较研究

A compare research on the clothing characteristics of the northern Saisiyat and Atayal in Taiwan

中国台湾高山族北赛夏人与泰雅人两支系毗邻而居,习性相似,故服饰相融却又保留各自特色,研究服饰中的共性与个性有助于体会两支系文化核心及他们之间的深厚情谊。文章运用文献资料法、图片分析法、实物对照法等研究办法、追溯两支系关系史并探讨两支系服饰的款式、色彩与图案特征。研究表明,北赛夏人与泰雅人服饰共性表现为:服饰形制均归属平面结构;服饰颜色以红、白、黑三色为主,且尤为偏好红色;服饰图案多样,取材自宗教信仰或自然环境,以菱形纹为主要服饰纹样。服饰个性则表现为:赛夏人以矮人神信仰为其核心文化,围绕宗教仪式,服饰上较为特点的有矮人纹样、臀铃饰物;泰雅人具有精湛的服饰纺织技术,服饰图案运用多元化,该支系还有装饰性与价值性最强的贝珠类服饰。

The Saisiyat belong to a branch of the Taiwan Gaoshan nationality,with a population of about 7000 which is smaller than that of other branches.Due to the blockage of mountains and administrative divisions,the Saisiyat can be further divided into two branches-the northern group and the southern group.Southern Saisiyat are surrounded by Hakka settlements,and their clothing culture is obviously influenced by Hakka people.The Saisiyat people who live together with Atayal,are more strongly influenced by Atayal clothing culture.Due to the neighborhood relationship between the two branches and the fictive kinship caused by mutual intermarriage,the production,life,language and culture of the Saisiyat are constantly influenced by the Atayal.Eventually,the clothing of the northern Saisiyat becomes gradually similar to Atayal clothing in this environment,which is also known as clothing assimilation.However,the Saisiyat have strong cultural adaptability,so they still retain the core culture of this branch in the changing environment,and the ethnic characteristics of the ethnic group in clothing are the personalization of clothing.Based on the ethnic relationship between the Saisiyat and the Atayal,this paper deeply explores the influence and changes of clothing between the two branches.In order to clarify the commonality of clothing caused by the neighborhood relationship between the Saisiyat and the Ataya,as well as the individualization of the core culture in the clothing retained by the Saisiyat,this article looks up a large number of literature and sums up the clothing image data of the Saisiyat people and the Atayal people and carries out comparative research to figure out the commonality and individual characteristics of the clothing of the two branches based on the study of the literature related to Saisiyat studies,including the social history of Saisiyat,religion of Saisiyat studies,historical events of Saisiyat,geographical space and ethnic relations,etc.Taking clothing as a carrier to fully understand the branch relationship between Saisiyat and Atayal,and based on the background factors such as branch relationship and religious culture,it deeply discusses the style characteristics,colors and pattern characteristics of the clothing of the two branches.The study finds that the common characteristics of the northern Saisiyat and Atayal’s clothing are:ⅰ)The clothing shape belongs to the square clothing system.ⅱ)The colors of clothing are mainly red,white and black,especially red.ⅲ)The patterns of clothing are rich,and are drawn from religious beliefs or the natural environment,with rhombus patterns as the main clothing patterns.The clothing personality is shown as follows:firstly,the Saisiyat take the belief in dwarf gods as their core culture and attach importance to religious ceremonies,and there are more characteristic dwarf patterns and hip bell ornaments on their clothing.Secondly,the Atayal people have exquisite clothing and textile technology,and the use of clothing patterns is diversified.This branch also has the most decorative and valuable shell-bead clothing.The living habits,religious beliefs,economic exchanges,and historical events among the Gaoshan ethnic groups in Taiwan can subtly affect the clothing culture of the branch.On the contrary,the analysis of the commonality and individuality of the clothing among the branches can also reveal what kind of connections and interactions have occurred between the branches.As one of the earliest discovered branches of the Taiwan Gaoshan nationality,the Saisiyat are sandwiched between the two alien races.As for what will happen under the impact of different cultures,and how does the weak Saisiyat retain their own culture to extend the vein of their nation in their own way,focusing on the Saisiyat people’s clothing culture plays a great role in answering this questions,and the exploration of Saisiyat’s clothing changes can also contribute to the Saisiyat study.