乳化剂对结晶型氨基酸洁面膏性能的影响

Effects of emulsifiers on the performance of crystalline N-cocoyl glycinate based facial cleanser

从泡沫量与结构、结膏温度、质地以及稳定性等方面,研究了4种不同乳化剂对以椰油酰甘氨酸钠为主的结晶型洁面膏的影响。结果表明,聚甘油类乳化剂Hostacerin®DGSB使配方结膏温度降低,同时配方具有更高的硬度、浓稠度以及黏性,显著提高配方的稳定性;磷酸酯类乳化剂Hostaphat®KW340D能提高洁面膏的泡沫稳定性,明显提高配方的结膏温度以及与珠光剂的相容性,也能明显提高硬度、浓稠度、黏性以及配方的稳定性。液晶型乳化剂Plantasens®Emulsifier HP 30能显著提高泡沫的细密程度与稳定性,硬度提高的同时也有比较好的铺展性;而聚醚类乳化剂Eumulgin®S21与体系的兼容性差,导致泡沫量明显减少,泡沫的稳定性也最差,虽然能提高结膏温度,但加速洁面膏的失稳过程,因此不适用于该体系。

The effects of four different emulsifiers on the crystalline cleansing cream based on sodium N-cocoyl glycinate were studied,including foam volume and structure,crystallizing temperature,texture and stability.The results show that,Hostacerin®DGSB reduces the crystallizing temperature,but shows higher hardness,consistency and viscosity,which significantly improves the stability of the formula;Hostaphat®KW340D can improve the foam stability and significantly enhance the crystallizing temperature and the compatibility with pearlescent agent,besides it can also significantly improve the hardness,consistency,viscosity and stability of the formula;the liquid-crystal-type emulsifier Plantasens®Emulsifier HP 30 can significantly improve the fineness and stability of foam,and it has good spreadability though the hardness is improved;the polyether-type emulsifier Eumulgin®S21 has poor compatibility with the system,resulting in obvious foam volume reduction and the worst foam stability.Although it can increase the crystallizing temperature,it accelerates the instability process of the formula,so it is not suitable for this system.