宁波纺织服装类“非遗”发展现状与传承思考——以金银彩绣为例

Development Status and Inheritance Thinking of“Intangible Cultural Heritage”of Ningbo Textile and Garment——Taking gold and silver embroidery as an example

为更好传承和活化纺织服装类非遗,以宁波金银彩绣列入国家级非遗名录10年期间的发展和创新为切入点,从宣传展示、传承创新和学术研究等角度梳理其传承发展现状,思考了纺织服装类非遗的传承内容和实践方式。认为“非遗”作为重要形式和载体,其所承载的使命,不仅是自身的文化符号意义,也有其潜藏的经济效用。在政府的支持下,在新的生产基础、时代审美价值观的基础上,非遗的传承要反映公众声音,以现代设计力量诠释非遗,将非遗传承与高校设计审美教育互动进行。同时借助政府平台,融合本土纺织服装产业资源,让非遗的传承和现代纺织服装业的创新共同发展。

In order to better inherit and activate the textile and garment intangible cultural heritage(ICH),this paper starts with the development and innovation of Ningbo gold and silver embroidery during its inclusion in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List for 10 years,combs its inheritance and development status from the perspectives of publicity and display,inheritance innovation and academic research and discusses the inheritance content and practice methods of textile and garment intangible cultural heritage.As an important form and carrier,the mission of ICH is not only its own cultural symbol significance,but also its hidden economic utility.With the support of the government,the ICH inheritance should reflect the public’s voice on the basis of the new production basis and the aesthetic values of the times,interpret ICH with the power ofmodern design,and interact ICH inheritance with the aesthetic design education of colleges and universities.At the same time,with the help of the government platform,the local textile and garment industry resources are integrated,so as to jointly develop the inheritance of ICH and the innovation of the modern textile and garment industry.